Her dedication to bespoke footwear is almost religious, but Olga Berluti has plenty of followers who share her beliefs

Creative director Olga Berluti BY JOSH SIMS

If you’re a a serious shoe connoisseur – and a man – chances are you will have heard about Berluti, the legendary Parisian company renowned for its luxurious footwear. Berluti creations are to men what Manolo Blahniks and Jimmy Choos are to woman… and so much more. The shoes inspire such devotion that a special clique of Berluti fans, known as the Swann Club, regularly meets in a swanky location where, standing in their bespoke suits and socks, they polish their beloved Berlutis… using Venetian linen and vintage Dom Pérignon Champagne! And if this sounds over the top, there’s more to come: it all takes place by the light of the moon, the reason being that the sun burns, whereas the moon burnishes and gives transparency to leather. It’s fitting that there is only one rule at this unique and eccentric gathering: no “bores” are allowed!

The black lace-up
Alessandro, part of
the Demesures
Classiques collectionThe creative director of the company, Olga Berluti, is as passionate about her products as her devoted followers, and understands what makes them tick: “Connoisseurs first simply desire our shoes. Then they have to think about it more deeply,” says Berluti, who, to British ears, speaks with a poetic turn of phrase that only the French can get away with. “We know they need to take their time in order to let the idea ‘mature’ because, once adopted, the men who buy our shoes keep them for years – they will never end up at the bottom of their wardrobes, but on the altar. Man stands in his shoes as if on the bridge of a sailing ship.”

The Berluti ship is more an ocean-going, wood-panelled private yacht. Berluti shoes do not come cheap – a basic pair can cost £500, a bespoke pair up to £3,000. And yet, by remaining at the top of the market and offering something truly special, the company has cornered a loyal clientele of largely, though not always, recession-proof customers.

Indeed, the characteristic Berluti style – a narrow toe, deeply burnished leather, sometimes deliberately scarred uppers or, most recently, a wolf’s paw-print embedded into the sole – has allowed the brand to remain distinctive while competitors disappear into a miasma of look-alike brogues and Oxfords. Certainly Berluti believes that sticking to your guns, however uncommercial it may seem, is the secret to success in the luxury market.

The Berluti flagship store in
Paris at 26 Rue Marbeuf “To me, luxury is a sign of uniqueness. Luxury means having a real personality, like a painter or sculptor,” she says. “It means staying out of the luxury game, as other brands might see it. I have a sharp, very particular look upon the world. I always watched how the others play and have fun, which perhaps leads me to have an acute take on people that feeds into the designs.”

Small wonder that Berluti is, and always has been, worn by big shots: the late Pope John Paul, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Cocteau, Salavador Dali, Federico Fellini and Richard Burton are just some of the luminaries who have stepped out in style in Berluti shoes. When she was just 18, Olga created the “Andy” loafer for Andy Warhol, while the pearl-encrusted “coronation” shoes she designed for Jean-Bédel Bokassa (the self-appointed emperor of the Central African Republic), cost £50,000.

Demand, however, has not always been consistent: the company struggled during the recession of the early 90s and, to some extent, was rescued through acquisition by the LVMH luxury conglomerate. That also gave the business a new lease of life: a branding overhaul and new shops have followed. The parent company has been wise, however, in largely leaving Berluti to retain the intimacy of a small family business. Olga, after all, was preceded by Talbinio Berluti, who shod the Kennedy clan; Torello Berluti before him was marketing-savvy enough to open a landmark Berluti shop next to the Paris Ritz; and it was cabinet-maker turned bootmaker Alessandro Berluti who established the Berluti firm in 1895. That is a heritage money cannot buy.

another pair of the
highly coveted shoes –
Evade, part of the Fil
D’Ariane collectionSometimes, that family attitude to business has verged on the backward: simple chauvinism meant that Olga was originally not permitted to train as a shoemaker. It was only through many years as an award-winning costume designer that the family finally assented to her undergoing 10 years of shoe-making apprenticeship. On the plus side, Olga believes that a family business with a very specialist product is most likely to weather any financial storms.

“Berluti is still a family business and we welcome the customer like a special being with a singular wish,” she explains. “As long as they are exceptional beings – and by that I mean people who are special throughout the strength of their desires – the company will be there to listen to them carefully. That desire is infinite: we can capture it and also employ new technologies to develop shoe designs that can keep up with our imagination.”

That technology, mixed with old-fashioned craftmanship, is certainly put to some interesting uses. One iconic line of shoes, for example, required the development of a new leather piercing and inking technique to give us the first tattooed footwear. It’s this kind of novelty, says Olga, that really guarantees the brand’s future. As advanced manufacturing techniques and faster distribution dilute the idea of luxury

– and cause high-fashion products to become increasingly homogenised – consumers are reconfiguring their idea of what constitutes the truly special. With the term “luxury” being applied by marketing bods to everything from cat food to dish cloths, Berluti is one of the few brands to remain genuinely distinctive and luxurious.

 
Richard Burton and Andy Warhol are just two in a long
list of notable personalities to have owned Berluti shoes

“There is an elite for whom handmade goods are reflective of a kind of ‘art of good living’,” Berluti explains. “More and more, this is what top-end customers are seeking – just possessing such an object, wanting that object, shoes in our case, is a powerful driver. And I like to think that that desire remains unchanged as their shoes become more beautiful over the years, like an old brandy.”

Or, indeed, a bottle of vintage Champagne. To those who are happy in a pair of battered trainers, it may seem barmy not to drink it. But not to the Berluti followers.

Voted one of the 80 best drives in the world by Top Gear, the journey between Galway and Clifden in Ireland inspires Catherine Hanly to take a long overdue road trip with her father

We followed in the tyre tracks of the Top Gear team to see if this stretch of road really is one of the best drives in the world. Did Jeremy, Richard and James get it right?

Since he taught me, with infinite patience, to drive when I was 17, I feel I’ve owed a debt to my Dad.

So when his favourite TV programme Top Gear named the N59 route (close to where he lives in Ireland) as one of its 80 best drives in the world, it seemed like a great idea for a father and daughter road trip. Happily, he agreed to follow in the tyre tracks of Clarkson, Hammond and May, so we set aside a day to cover the route from Galway (52 miles from Knock) to Clifden.

9am

Heading out of Galway city on the N59, it’s amazing how quickly we swap the streets of the bustling city for dry-stone walls and lush green fields. We’re barely 10 minutes into our drive and already we can see the inky-blue waters of Lough Corrib to our right. The largest lake in Ireland, the Corrib covers 200 acres and according to the locals has 365 islands, one for every day of the year.

We’ve decided to mainly stick to the N59 so we can see if it lives up to Top Gear’s billing as being “as wild and untamed as the people that live here”. But when we reach the first town of Moycullen we’re enticed by a sign (on the right-hand side) that takes you a little off course. It leads us to Brigit’s Garden, which has a reputation as a real oasis. Designed by Chelsea Flower Show gold-medallist Mary Reynolds, these wild gardens take Dad and me on a horticultural tour through the four seasons of the Celtic calendar. The café, which sources much of its food from the gardens, has just been included in Ireland’s prestigious Bridgestone food guide.

10am

Back on the road again, the first large town we come to is Oughterard and it’s clear from the moment we arrive what the number-one industry is here. Everywhere we look, boat trips, fishing tackle and waterproofs are on offer to beginners and seasoned anglers hoping to find the best spots for fresh salmon and trout in the nearby Corrib.

If fishing isn’t your thing, you can take a day trip on the lake from Oughterard Pier out to the tiny island of Inchagoil with its fifth-century monastic ruins.

Just as we leave Oughterard we spot a small sign on the left pointing to the Quiet Man Bridge. The Quiet Man is a classic 1952 movie starring John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara and won an Oscar for legendary director John Ford. The bridge here is featured in the movie’s opening scenes and is the perfect spot for a photo opportunity. As with everywhere else we’ve been today, we have the road to ourselves, allowing me to direct my father in, creeping slowly over the bridge in the car until I get the shot I’m looking for.

11am

After Oughterard the scenery changes markedly as we enter the spectacular and incredibly green Connemara National Park – here it’s all forests, mountains and lakes. Top Gear said this road was “as starkly beautiful as it gets” and they’re spot-on. We keep having to stop the car to get out and look at the beautiful scenery. Glaciers were obviously hard at work many millennia ago, carving out lakes all over this area and leaving in their wake the mountain range known as The Twelve Bens (or “Pins” as they’re often known). The ranges aren’t particularly high and are pretty easy to hike, but today we’re sticking with four wheels to get around.

It’s worth keeping an eye out for a narrow bank running alongside the road at this point – it’s what remains of the old railway that used to run from Galway to Clifden. Opened in 1895, it ran for just 40 years and is now used as a point of reference for people hiking through this spectacular part of Ireland.

12pm

At the crossroads by Maam Cross we take a brief detour. My father’s been told that Keane’s Bar at this location is worth a visit – purely for research purposes you understand. As I sip a Guinness (Dad’s doing the driving), barman Tomas Higgins tells us the history of the pub. What I find hard to imagine is that until the early part of the 19th century there were no roads into the heart of Connemara. Much of what you see is the work of a single Scottish engineer, Alexander Nimmo, who built the harbour at Maam and whose house later became this pub.

We also get a taste of the dark history of this area – apparently the inn was often used by the tyrannical landowner Lord Leitrim, who was much hated by the locals and eventually met a grisly end: ambushed and murdered in 1878. Tomas also helps explain why this area is so lush and green and watery. “It rains in Maam for 300 days of the year,” he says, cheerfully.

what’s on: Belfast

The organisers behind BELFAST’s newest music festival BELSONIC, have scored a major coup with their inaugural line-up. This happening event – which is billed as having “all the atmosphere of a music festival in the most urban of settings” – is a series of one-off concerts. The two events confirmed as we went to press were The Flaming Lips [top] at the Custom Hall, supported by Mogwai [above], on 11 August, followed by The Zutons (supported by The Go! Team) on 15 August. www.belsonic.com

Also in Belfast…. The shambolic, rambling pace of Irish comedian DYLAN MORAN is a huge part of his charm and certainly audiences seem to agree, with his tours selling out wherever he goes. Catch him for an evening of the kind of comedic entertainment that’ll have you snorting out loud, when he plays for two nights as part of his new What It Is tour at Belfast’s Waterfront Hall on 29 and 30 October. www.waterfront.co.uk/whatson

what’s on: Alicante

Sail on
THE VOLVO OCEAN RACE is one of the world’s greatest sailing adventures, attracting boats and crews from every nation to take part in this round-the-world nautical adventure. The 2008-9 eight-month ocean marathon will be launched in suitably spectacular style on 11 October. And for the first time in the event’s history, this will take place in ALICANTE. To get everyone in the mood, the participating yachts will gather in the Spanish port on 4 October for a two-hour race, giving spectators on land a chance to see what the yachts can do on the open seas. Look out for British Olympic medallist Ian Walker, skippering the Green Team yacht. www.volvooceanrace.org

what’s on: Edinburgh

Matthew Bourne caused a storm with his all-male Swan Lake, and now he’s heading to the EDINBURGH International Festival for the world premiere of his new ballet DORIAN GRAY, freely adapted from Oscar Wilde’s The Picture of Dorian Gray.

“It’s a challenge to do something darker,” he says of his new production, which runs from 22-30 August at the King’s Theatre. It is the last ballet he’ll do before heading to London to co-direct the new West End musical, Oliver! www.eif.co.uk

what’s on: Nottingham

For over 700 years, the traditional GOOSE FAIR has been one of the highlights of the annual NOTTINGHAM calendar (this year, it takes place from 1-4 October). Legend has it that the first fairs saw flocks of geese being driven from as far away as Norfolk to fill up the city’s larders for the winter ahead. And please don’t be offended if someone offers you “cock-on-a-stick” – it’s a traditional fun-fair snack in the form of a cockerel-shaped sugar lolly on a stick! www.nottinghamgoosefair.co.uk

what’s on: Perpignan

About 90 minutes’ drive up the coast from PERPIGNAN, the harbour of Sete is the place to be for the annual SEA-JOUSTING event. This surreal sport takes place from 20-26 August in the main harbour. Jousters are armed with a lance and a wooden shield as they balance on their boats. The aim is to try and topple opposing boatmen into the water, with huge cheers from spectators when they succeed. www.ot-sete.fr

what’s on: Malaga

At midnight on 15 August, one of the biggest parties in Spain’s calendar – the MALAGA FERIA – kicks off with a massive fireworks display, signalling the start of nine days of non-stop celebrations. By day, locals and visitors pack the streets to take part in traditional dances while sampling tapas and local wine at the many bars set up for the Feria. By night there’s a packed programme of cultural activities, from concerts to bullfights and a fairground with over 200 stalls. Best of all, the festival won’t leave you out of pocket – strict rules are in place to ensure prices don’t go sky-high over the Feria. www.malagaturismo.com

A chic beach-style resort on Milan’s doorstep? The secret to being seriously cool in Italy’s fashion capital this summer is out

BY KATHRYN TOMASETTI

Don those designer sunnies and head to Idroscalo to be as cool as
the Milanese – in every sense of the word!

An oasis in the city: Idroscalo is
Milan’s answer to New York’s
Central Park, and is the perfect
place for paddling, picnicing and
posingThe Milanese are famous for leaving town in late summer. The city’s huge business set are happy to pull on their Tod’s and trot off to Elba or Sardinia until early September. This conveniently leaves the city centre, complete with its freshly restored cathedral (the second largest in the world), free for the likes of us to explore. But where do the poor guys still manning the museums and mixing Martinis go to sunbathe?

“They go to Idroscalo,” explained the burly tourist-office clerk.

“Do you have any information on it?” I asked.

“Niente!” he laughed. “No tourists ever go to Idroscalo. It’s paradise!” Idroscalo (or Idropark Fila as it’s officially known) is a whacking great man-made lake, a 10-minute bus ride (or €25 taxi fare) east of town. It was carved out as a watery landing strip on the orders of Mussolini, who thought that sea planes would be the transport of the future. Never the sharpest knife in the drawer, his prediction was a wee bit off the mark, but the unwitting legacy is an 8km² zone of lake and forests where locals can swim, sail and party [see Festivals box opposite].

I first take in the lake scene with my early morning caffè macchiato (why can’t we make coffee this good?). The action is pretty self-explanatory; rows of brightly coloured pedalos, parasols and clear-blue skies, a fully fledged beach resort on Milan’s doorstep. Dragonflies zip around the reedy shoreline.

Suddenly two bronzed Adonises (Greek, not Roman, I know) dart out of the Boat Club at the lake’s northern end. Their oars are synched. Hawaii Five-0 style eye-candy stealing across the calm surface. They elicit a slight reaction from the trio of girls on the sun loungers by the shore. These signorine could be in Rimini or the Costa Smeralda; they’re topless, tanned and on their telephones.

A 6km footpath and cycle route circles the lake. A five-minute stroll north of the Milan-Idroscalo bus stop and it’s kid heaven. They’ve got trampolines, bouncy castles, an inflatable chicken and whale with opening mouth, swings and a jungle gym. The parallel bars look a bit daunting though, in a 1970s-Romanian-Olympic-training-camp kind of way. But if children love a day out at the beach, they’ll love it here. And what a treat to give them after a day at Milan’s classic-art museum, Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, or a laborious bout of window shopping along Via della Spiga.

The north-eastern side of the lake is the trendiest. It’s lunchtime now, and I can smell it. Culinary barriers won’t be smashed at the six or seven restaurants dotted around Idroscalo any time soon. Rather, there’s tasty home-made pizzas, grilled sea-bass, spaghetti alla vongole (spaghetti with clams) and risotto ai fungi porcini (risotto with wild mushrooms), all eaten lakeside in the warm summer air.

There’s time for a cooling dip pre-lunch though. And what could be better than an open-air swimming pool? Three of them in a row, that’s what. The midweek entrance fee is €5, or €7 on Saturdays and Sundays when Milan’s coolest cats descend upon the lake. Think of the weekend price hike as a €2 “beautiful people supplement”. Like Capri in summer, things can get flirty poolside where thongs and buff pecs abound.

The open-air disco bars that surround Idroscalo’s southern edge more than make up for Milan’s quiet mid-summer party scene. But heading down here in daytime you’re more likely to pass a lycra-bound, iPod-toting jogger instead. Only the Milanese could turn running into a fashion statement. In fact, the fitness regime even has its own sexy pseudo-English name: “footing”. From a city where even schoolchildren wear sunglasses, this comes as no surprise.

Idroscalo’s quietest spots are further around in the south-western corner. Solo sunbathers are accompanied by birdsong. Contemplating the ride home it’s hard to believe this leafy enclave of sun, sports and hot-summer nights has gone undiscovered for so long. Milan’s mini-version of Lake Maggiore has it all.

FESTIVAL IN THE PARK
Until 7 September, there’s even more of a temptation to visit Idroscalo: “In Festa”. Highlights at this fun summer festival, held at various lakeside venues, include the Moscow City Ballet (1 August), Venezuelan salsa star Carlos Ugueto (7 August) and the Rock in Idro festival (30 and 31 August). For details, tel: +39 (0)2 7020 0902 or go to www.provincia.milano.it/idroscalo

OTHER PLACES TO BEAT THE HEAT
Despite its concrete jungle reputation, Milan has more than a few hidden respites from the sometimes oppressive summer sun. For a fantastically icy dip downtown, try the public pool/park Centro Balneare Estivo Caimi (Via Carlo Botta 18; open 10am-7pm from mid-June through to mid-Sept). As well as boasting a 50×25m pool, it also has a great kids’ paddling area with a fountain in the middle. Alternately, the historical Piscina Solari (Via Montevideo 20; open daily from mid-June through to mid-Sept; hours vary) sits below a bubble-shaped glass roof. The piazza surrounding it is also stuffed with plenty of climbing frames, swings and roundabouts.

GETTING THERE
For some cool summer fun, take off with bmibaby to Milan (Bergamo). Flights depart from Birmingham and fares start at just £24.99 one-way, incl taxes. For more details, log on to www.bmibaby.com

BY LUCY HIGGINS & CHLOE MARKOWICZ

Aberdeen, SCOTLAND

THE INSIDER… Shonagh Bain of Aberdeen Art Gallery. Open since 1885, the gallery exhibits some of the finest Scottish Colourists. Schoolhill; www.aagm.co.uk. HER TIPS… 1. CAFE BOHEME: For your own little bit of France in the middle of Aberdeen, head here for a delicious (and cheap!) French dining experience. For something a bit different, try the venison and gin stew. 23 Windmill Brae; www.cafebohemerestaurant.co.uk. 2. THE BELMONT HOUSE: Since 1910, this cinema has shown art-house, independent and foreign films, as well as more mainstream ones, on its three screens. Check out the annual French and Italian film festivals, and the regular quiz night. 49 Belmont Street; www.picturehouses.co.uk. 3. CAFE DRUMMONDS: Everyone from Chas & Dave to Belle and Sebastian has played here: as well as hosting touring acts, the bar also has frequent Battle of the Band and open-mic nights – so you can unleash your inner rock god! 1 Belmont Street; www.cafedrummond.co.uk. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is just under 3km north-west of Aberdeen city centre. Buses to central Aberdeen depart every 30 mins at peak times; every 40 mins off-peak. Journey approx 40 mins; fare £1.20. Taxi fare: approx £10. www.aberdeenairport.

Alicante, SPAIN

THE INSIDER… Yasmina Campello, of the Archaeological Museum of Alicante, which houses eight galleries and uses multimedia to educate visitors. Plaça Dr. Gómez Ulla; www.marqalicante.com. HER TIPS… 1. HEAD TO THE HIGH STREET: Alicante’s main shopping area can be found between the Rambla, Calle Gerona, Calle Mayor and Calle del Teatro. Spend the afternoon wandering around the streets and be sure to sample Alicante’s famous dates, sugared almonds and nougats. Visit www.corazondealicante. com for a full list of shops. 2. PANORAMIS: Continue shopping in the Panoramis shopping centre, which has beautiful sea views. And once you’re all shopped out, head to the Cinemis cinema where, with several large screens, you can watch films and munch popcorn in peace. 6 Muelle de Poniente; www.panoramis.com. 3. SANTA BÁRBARA CASTLE: Located on top of Mount Benacantil, the castle [above] is one of Spain’s largest medieval fortresses, and, at a height of 166 metres, it provides stunning views of Alicante’s bay. If you’re feeling energetic you can walk the steep path, but it’s easier to drive there or take the elevator to the top of the mountain (free if you’re disabled or an EU senior citizen). FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 11km south-east of Alicante city centre. Buses to central Alicante depart hourly. Journey approx 40 mins; fare €1. There are also regular buses to Murcia and Benidorm. Taxi fare: approx €12 to Alicante; €55 to Benidorm. www.aena.es.

Barcelona, SPAIN

THE INSIDER… Isabel Díaz at the Barcelona Maritime Museum, where you see ships of all shapes and sizes. www.museumaritimbarcelona.com. HER TIPS… 1. TORRE D’ALTA MARA: Tuck into duck foie gras and lobster at this luxurious restaurant in the sky. Located in a former watchtower 75m above sea level, the restaurant combines an excellent traditional Mediterranean menu with breathtaking views. 88 Passeig Joan de Barbo; www.torredealtamar.com. 2. MONUMENTO DE COLON: You might know him as Christopher Columbus, but in Spain the explorer is known as Cristobal Colon. If you walk down the end of Las Ramblas you can visit his monument [below], which dates back to 1888. You can even take a lift up to the top for panoramic views of the city. Plaza del Portal de la Pau. 3. EL PAILEBOT SANTA EULALIA: Ahoy, sailor. Go to Barcelona’s old port and step aboard this historical schooner, which dates back to 1918 and has been beautifully restored. Muelle de la Fusta.
FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 19km southeast of Barcelona city centre. All bmibaby flights depart from Terminal A. Buses to central Barcelona leave every 7 to 15 mins, from 6am to 1am. Journey approx 40 mins; fare €3.75. Trains to the city centre run every 30 mins, from 6.30am to 11.30pm. Journey approx 25 mins; fare €2.20. Taxi fare: approx €20. www.aena.es.

Amsterdam, NETHERLANDS

THE INSIDER… Axel Rüger, of the Van Gogh Museum, which this summer will run presentations about the painter, as well as the permanent art collection. 7 Paulus Potterstraat; www..vangoghmuseum.nl. HIS TIPS… 1. GO ORGANIC: Every Saturday there’s an organic farmers’ market in the Noordermarkt, a little square between the Westerstraat and the Prinsengracht (in the Jordaan quarter). Between 9am and 4pm every week, you can stock up on fresh and local organic fruit, vegetables, cheese, milk, bread, meat and flowers. 2. RELAX: Amsterdam has many sights and attractions to visit, but one of the nicest and most relaxing things to do is enjoy a slice of apple pie [left] and a cup of coffee at the delightful Café Winkel in the Noordermarket. The pie is baked fresh all day and you even get to see the chefs hand-peeling all the apples. Noordermarkt, 43. 3. GET CULTURAL: Choose from one of the many concerts on offer at the famous Concertgebouw at the Museumplein. There’s classical, world music, jazz, youth concerts, and even free lunchtime concerts every Wednesday. www.concertgebouw.nl. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 14km from Amsterdam city centre. A shuttle service runs between the airport and city every 10 mins, from 6am to 9pm. Journey approx 30 mins; fare €11 one-way, €17.50 return. Trains run from the airport to the city 24 hours a day. Journey approx 20 mins; fare €3.60. Taxi fare: approx €40. www.schiphol.nl.

If you want a diverse – and fun! – clubbing experience, this is the place for you. All you need is a little bit of party spirit and you’re good to go…

BY SARAH WOODS

There’s zero chance of a dull
night out at Ground Zero If you’ve arrived in Warsaw ready for a big night out, you won’t be disappointed. Happening hang-outs can be found throughout the Polish capital, from the upscale restaurants in the green, leafy enclaves of the peacock-strewn Lazienki Park and chi-chi artsy joints dotted around the city, to jumping Cracovia (Poland’s ubiquitous vodka brand) joints and pulsating Pilsner party spots (Poland is second in Pilsner consumption only to the Czech Republic). In Warsaw’s Sródmiescie district and the suburb of Nowy Swiat, glamour, glitz and sleaze infiltrate in equal measures. Yet it’s the ultra-funky Praga district – the capital’s perfectly restored UNESCO-listed old quarter – that is the scene of some of Warsaw’s most debauched and decadent lost weekends.

By 7pm, Praga is already heaving with party-goers as the brash bars and neon-lit cafés along Zabkowska and Listopada streets stutter to life. Beautiful people, kicking DJs and a bohemian mix of clubbers frequent a zillion oh-so-cool venues, running from smoky bars and spit-and-sawdust pubs, to sophisticated clubs and lounges.

Against a backdrop of handsome 19th-century architecture, throngs of fresh-faced, plump-lipped Varsovians (locals) mingle with cocktail-supping tourists and street buskers. Taxis and limousines maintain a continuous kerb crawl as paparazzi flashbulbs hail the arrival of yet another headline-making glamour puss.

By midnight, the vibe is fast approaching fever pitch as techno beats, 70s kitsch, sultry jazz and home-grown disco set the tone. Daybreak brings wafting folk melodies from old-fashioned vodka dens and dingy basement dives. And as the sun rises and Warsaw slowly mellows, hand-holding couples follow the winding trajectory of the River Vistula in search of a chilled-out post-party haunt.

It’s a similar scene across Warsaw’s cityscape – whatever your taste in tunes and tipples, there’s a great night waiting to be enjoyed. In the name of research, yeahbaby bar-crawled across Warsaw in search of the finest places to hang out with the crowds.

Cutting-edge clique

A dash of glamour
at PistaccioWarsaw’s plethora of sleek lounge bars and contemporary cocktail joints attract a fashionable – if less frenetic – trendsetting crowd. Warsaw’s dress-up-to-the-nines set sip vodka-based cocktails infused with vermouth, blackberry brandy and lemon juice with true panache. Head to the stylish cool-zone of the Cinnamon Bar (Pl. Pi[0142]sudskiego 1) – but not until well after 1am, as this is when the Sir Norman Foster-designed, cutting edge building (opposite the National Opera House) really hits its stride. Expect models, actors, Armani-suited business types and a trio of DJs spinning ambient beats at weekends. At the Chimera, (ul. Podwale 29) a ditsy décor adorned with eclectic bric-a-brac gives it the feel of an old curiosity shop, complete with laid-back, post-modern jazz mixes. Be sure to stop by the cool Pistaccio Lobby Bar & Lounge in the Hilton downtown (Grzybowska 63; www.warsaw.hilton.com) for a choice of umpteen fine whiskys, or take your pick from Warsaw’s largest menu of vodkas at the Plus One Bar at the InterContinental Warszawa (ul. Emilii Plater 49; www.warsaw.intercontinental.com). No end-of-night chill-out is complete without calling in on Luzztro (al. Jerozolimskie 6; www.luztro.pl) – Warsaw’s ultimate after-party den. This place keeps the party going until brunch beckons, and is steeped in outrageous tales of sleep-starved revelry – pack your sunglasses as the strobe lighting is insane. Head to Cafe Bar Lemon (ul. Sienkiewicza 6; www.cafelemon.pl) for the ultimate recovery breakfast of a jug of coffee and a pile of sugar-dusted paczki (a traditional filled pastry) – a real pick-me-up after a big night out. Open 24 hours.

Could a sedate narrowboat holiday just a short hop from Birmingham hold the attention span of two jaded urbanites? You’d be surprised!

BY JULIE ALPINE

Our beach-loving writer,
Julie Alpine, together with
husband Shaun [left]
swapped deck-chairs for
deck shoes on her first
trip on a narrowboat.If you’ve mastered a three-point turn in a Renault Clio during rush hour in central London, you might think that you’d have no problem attempting the same thing in a 55ft narrowboat in a secluded 75ft turning point in the Shropshire Union Canal. We did. We were wrong.

As the ornate rope fenders – the narrowboat equivalent of car bumpers – of our boat, Sir Ulfius, bounce gently off the side of the canal for the hundredth time, we’re still pointing in the wrong direction, and beginning to wonder if we’re ever going to get our trusty vessel back to the hire company by the agreed time. Okay, so that’s not until tomorrow evening, but with a top cruising speed of three miles an hour, our 6pm deadline is beginning to look near impossible. Oh well. Maybe it’s time for a break and a nice cup of tea. Evidence of the healing powers of slow travel, surely?

Rewind two days and we’d arrived at Brewood Wharf, a half hour’s drive from Birmingham International Airport, hot and bothered after a hectic week in the urban jungle (and an argument over directions). The moment we caught our first glimpse of the Shropshire Union Canal, though, the tension started to ebb away.

Slicing through the counties of Staffordshire, Shropshire and Cheshire, the graceful waterway links the canal system of the Midlands, centred on Birmingham, with the River Mersey and Manchester Ship Canal at Ellesmere Port, Cheshire. Completed in 1835, it was the last major civil engineering accomplishment of famed Scottish stonemason, architect and engineer Thomas Telford. And if this all sounds somewhat industrial, the surprise is just how beautiful the “Shroppie” – as the canal is affectionately known by locals – really is.

Another surprise was just how luxurious the interior of a narrowboat could be. We were like excited kids when we discovered the comfortable double beds, two bathrooms (one with power shower), kitchenette with all mod cons and – wonder of wonders – a TV in the living area. More stress drained away as we happily put our groceries in the fridge – all local, organic produce that we’d pre-ordered and was waiting for us on arrival.

The people at Countrywide Cruisers, the small, family-run company that rented us our boat, know the canal’s twists and turns, its wildlife and the amenities inside out. Which is why we were grateful when, as complete narrowboating virgins, they sent Trevor with us to show us the ropes for the first hour of our glorious three-day trip.

Having enjoyed holidays on the waterways for over 17 years, Trevor packed in his job six years ago and “got myself a job in a boat yard”. After he’d shown us the basic maintenance we’d need to know for the duration of our voyage (easy enough, even for someone who doesn’t know how to check the oil on her car), and how to map our route and plan the itinerary with the help of the Pearson’s Canal Companion book, we cast off the ropes, started up the engine and were on our way. As we passed boats with names like Serendipity, Stress Free and Moving On, Trevor’s decision suddenly started to make a lot of sense.

Main picture: Tim White

the adventurers:
This issue, our lucky winners were CATHERINE, a copywriter for a marketing company and CHRIS, a data analyst for Boots. They live in Nottingham, although Catherine is originally a Lancashire lass from Blackburn. They’ve been together for just under a year and share a love for exciting jaunts, music festivals and all things made of cheese. Chris plays a mean guitar and, in an ideal world, Catherine would love nothing better than to eat pizza every day. And after a brilliant time in Krakow, they’re planning their next trip to Milan, on a quest to find Catherine’s dream chocolate-brown leather handbag… and eat lots of pizza.

DAY 1

11:00 Wawel Hill After checking into our lovely hotel – and c hecking out the gorgeous view – we strolled along the bank s of the Vistula River towards Wawel Hill. Here, the well-preserved Wawel castle (formerly a royal residence) and beautiful cathedral are perched high behind impressive fortress gates. There are lots of f ascinating museums to see here, and an opportunity to see the tombs of Polish kings from days gone by. Spooky!
13:00 Accidental ice cream Every supermarket and deli in Krakow offers a fine array of Polish sausage, and the choice is truly baffling. After a “surprise” sausage snack (we don’t speak Polish, so I have no idea what was in it, only that it was delicious!), we decided to wash it down with a traditional Polish tipple. But when we sat down at a “cocktail bar”, we discovered it was actually an ice-cream parlour (this is apparently what they are called in Poland!). We still managed to enjoy a highly potent liqueur-coffee though, in addition to a tasty ice-cream creation. Arlekin, Rynek G[0142]ówny 24.
14:00 Old Town Square Rynek G[0142]ówny is a huge medieval town-square that buzzes with locals and tourists alike. Wherever you end up in Krakow, all roads seem to lead back here! We were in awe of the amazing ar chitecture, but the throngs of people and multitude of sh ops, bars and restaurants ensure that it’s a cracking place to watch the world go by as well.
15:00 Shopping in the Cloth Hall The world’s most important deposits of amber are found in the Baltic region, and the 14th-century Cloth Hall in the centre of Rynek G[0142]ówny has dozens of stalls selling amber jewellery, in addition to market traders touting craftwork and the usual selection of tourist trinkets and T-shirts. It’s a great place to pick up a unique piece of jewellery anyway – if you’re not overwhelmed by the choice!
17:00 Jewish Quarter After our shopping expedition, we headed off on a 30-minute stroll to Kazimierz, the city’s Jewish quarter, to soak up some culture. Until the on-set of the World War II, this area was home to the largest Jewish population in Eastern Europe. The place is eerily familiar, as it was used as the setting for the Jewish ghetto in Steven Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. We stopped for a drink at Ulica Krokodyli pub – it’s a great place to soak up Jewish hospitality and enjoy a Polish vodka. A word of warning though – in Krakow, the measures are large, and the vodka is strong! Ulica Krokodyli pub; Ul.Szeroka 30.
20:00 Dinner After a quick trip back to the hotel, we went out for dinner at Miód Malina. The name of the restaurant translates as “honey, raspberry”, which is a Polish expression for something absolutely delicious. With a choic e of traditional Polish fare such as dumplings, and plenty of Italian dishes, we returned to our hotel content and well fed. Miód Malina; Ul. Grodzka 40; www.miodmalina.pl

How the new tram line is helping Nice’s property market – and its residents, such as Brit Melissa Hutchinson

BY MARY WILSON

Four years ago, Melissa Hutchinson, 28, decided it was time for a change. Born and raised in London, she had been working there in an assortment of jobs, but wanted a new challenge. “I decided to quit London and search for a better quality of life,” she explains.

The South of France was the logical location – she had spent several holidays with her aunt and cousins in Vence, a small town about 10 minutes’ drive from Nice, one of the most vibrant and beautiful cities on the French Riviera. She even spoke a little of the language: “A lot of my cousins’ friends only spoke French, so I picked it up quite quickly”.

Her first job in France was at the property management company run by her aunt, Jill Hutchinson, in Vence. Melissa stayed there for a year, and then in 2005 fell in love with a man called Seb.

“He was working in Paris, so I had a six-month break wandering around the French capital. But eventually we moved back to Nice and I found myself a job with Conference International in Monaco, about half an hour away,” she says. “I love living here because it’s so cosmopolitan. You can just as easily get to the beach as the mountains, and on the Promenade des Anglais there are always people walking, rollerblading or cycling. There’s something fun happening all the time, with lots of culture, museums, concerts, restaurants and bars.”

Nice harbour – to think, the locals
take it for granted!In August 2006, the recently engaged couple bought a two-bedroom flat, 10 minutes’ walk from Nice railway station. “It cost €172,000,” says Melissa, “but if it was in Antibes, the price would have been more like

€250,000 and in Cannes, between €200,000 and €250,000.” Property prices in Nice have always compared favourably to other popular spots on the Côte d’Azur, but with the launch of Nice’s sleek new tram service last November – and the resulting shot in the arm it’s given the property market – it will be interesting to see if this trend continues.

Quaint properties
abound in the Old
Town. “The town has seen prices grow rapidly over recent years – even more so with the arrival of the new tram system, despite years of disruption while it was being built,” says Your French Property’s Sharon Young, who is marketing a development called Parc St. Martin, near the end of the tram line. The one- to three-bedroom apartments, priced between

€211,000 and €383,000, are speeding off the books because of the location. “The tram has had a positive effect on prices, as homes that will be served by the new system in more remote areas are able to access the centre a lot more quickly than by car.”

The tram currently glides in – silent, except for its dinging bell – from the north and east to the centre of the city, with pedestrian grassy areas running along the route. It’s hoped that in the future it will also run west to the airport, despite the fact that this first incarnation took more than six years to build at a cost of some €370m.

Year-round sunshine
encourages an alfresco lifestyle “The environmental benefits and easy accessibility of the trams, which run the length of the shopping centre, make Nice even nicer, if that is possible!” says Serge Cowan of Unique Living, a property company specialising in the luxury end of the market.

“The trams have made a huge difference to getting around Nice,” adds Melissa. “Now people living on the outskirts can drive to the tram, as each line has a massive car park [free to tram-users] at either end. So for just €1, you can get to the centre of town. It will help to reduce car usage, and so ease CO² emissions.”

“The city offers a great opportunity for investors,” continues Serge. “It’s easily accessible from the UK [Nice airport is the second-largest in France] and is centrally located on the French Riviera, with the A8 motorway giving superb access to many beautiful resorts all along this coast, from Monaco in the east to St Tropez in the west.” And with the Cannes film festival and the Monaco Grand Prix, amongst other events, there will never be a shortage of tenants.

ON THE BOOKS
Jardin Pastorelli is a new development in the heart of Nice, set around a landscaped internal courtyard. The apartments have balconies overlooking the internal garden or bow windows overlooking the street. There are also four townhouses. Riviera Estates is selling the apartments from €160,000 for a studio, up to €745,000 for a three-bedroom duplex apartment. The two-bedroom townhouses with private terraces are priced from €570,000 to €595,000. All properties have air conditioning, individual electric heating, alarm system and Whirlpool appliances in the kitchen.

CONTACTS
Unique Living; tel: +44 (0)845 430 0185; www.uniqueliving.com. Riviera Estates (an associate of Savills); tel: +44 (0)20 7499 8644 (UK) or +33 (0)493 87 41 15 (France); www.savills.com. Your French Property; tel: +44 (0)800 970 9303 ; www.your-french-property.co.uk

GETTING THERE
For a really Nice life, head to the south of France! bmibaby flies to Nice from Birmingham and East Midlands. For more information about flights and tres bien fares from £24.99 one-way inc taxes, log on to www.bmibaby.com