yeahbaby proves you don’t have to spend a fortune to eat like a gourmand in Paris
BY ADRIAN MOORE, ILLUSTRATION BY MATT MIGNANELLI
Everyone in Paris is crazy about the latest culinary trend, “bistronomy”. Coined in the mid-90s, the term describes an inexpensive type of cuisine served by young chefs who have broken away from prestigious Michelin-starred establishments, such as the Hôtel de Crillon, Ritz Paris and the Tour d’Argent, to strike out on their own. Armed with their extensive command of haute cuisine, and often support of the master chefs who trained them, these young chefs have invested in small establishments in ordinary working-class Parisian neighbourhoods, combed the market for the best in seasonal produce, and created the single-most influential change on the gastronomic landscape since nouvelle cuisine.
These bistronomics or néo bistros (new bistros) are often located away from the centre of Paris, but they’re worth the trek, thanks to their intoxicating combination of authentic, skilled cooking and excellent value. Serious Parisian foodies like to keep these places a secret, so if you’re asked how you heard about them, don’t let on we told you...
Afaria
Owned by young chef Julien Duboué, a twenty-something with an impeccable gastro pedigree (Le Cinq and Carré des Feuillants restaurants in Paris, Café Boulud in New York) and culinary talent, this small, Basque-inspired bistro offers up huge value with a three-course menu for under €30. Typical items include scallop carpaccio with pumpkin cream, and duck roasted in balsamic vinegar and served on a bed of twigs. Their boudin noir (blood sausage) cooked with apples, millefeuille-style, has all of Paris raving.15, rue Desnouettes, 75015;
tel: +33 (01) 4856 1536
La Bulle
Recently opened by two young entrepreneurs in an area of the 10th arondissement that’s undergoing some serious gentrification, this formerly decrepit café has been transformed into a pleasant, modern bistro offering generous portions for a three-course, €30 menu. Typical dishes include popping (soft-boiled) egg with cèpe and girolle mushrooms, and blood sausage toast and scallops with chestnut sauce. The service is cool and relaxed, and the charming Canal Saint Martin is just a few minutes away. 48, rue Louis Blanc, 75010;
tel: +33 (01) 4037 3451
L’Arôme
Owned by Eric Martins, a former fighter pilot who cut his teeth running the dining room at the legendary Lucas Carton before going into business for himself, this néo bistro offers rare dining value in the oh-so touristy Champs Elysées. Assisted by the former chef of the Royal Monceau, a luxury hotel in Paris, the €40 three-course menu is a steal, with dishes such as pigeon roasted with wild herbs, and roasted prawns with carrots, coriander and coconut. The dining room is decorated in deep reds, and has a vaulted cellar that can be booked for parties and private functions. 3, rue Saint Philippe du Roule, 75008; tel: +33 (01) 4225 5598; www.larome.fr
Beurre Noisette
L’AromeLocated in the far-flung 14th arondissement, this small establishment is one of the original bistronomics. Chef-owner Thierry Blanqui, former second in command in the kitchens of the three Michelin-starred Ledoyen, offers one of Paris’s best and most interesting dining experiences, again for under €40 for three-courses. Always at the top of his game, Blanqui’s talent shines through in dishes such as pig’s foot carpaccio, and slow-cooked lamb’s shoulder with lemon and cumin. 68, rue Vasco de Gama, 75015; tel: +33 (01) 4856 8249
La Cave Gourmande
Located steps away from Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, just east of Montmartre, this is one of the original gastro-bistros, much loved by gourmands and those in the know. Mark Singer, the chef-owner, spent years working with some of France’s great chefs before opening this small gem of a restaurant that excels in preparing the best produce simply and with care. The prix-fixe menu is a steal at under €33, and the cellar is packed full with well-chosen wines from all regions. 10, rue Général Brunet, 75019; tel: +33 (01) 4040 0330
Spring
Young American Daniel Rose’s bistro was the talk of le tout Paris last year and made the rounds of the world food press. This tiny establishment has just 16 seats and offers a creative and well crafted four-course menu for less than €40. The menu changes daily according to the market and whims of the chef. Reserve far in advance for dinner, or shoot for a lunch booking. 28, rue de la Tour d’Auvergne, 75009; tel: +33 (01) 4596 0572; www.springparis.blogspot.com
GETTING THERE
bmibaby flies to Paris from East Midlands from just £24.99 one-way, including taxes. For more details, log on to www.bmibaby.com. Bon appétit!
issues archives 
Everyone in Paris is crazy about the latest culinary trend, “bistronomy”. Coined in the mid-90s, the term describes an inexpensive type of cuisine served by young chefs who have broken away from prestigious Michelin-starred establishments, such as the Hôtel de Crillon, Ritz Paris and the Tour d’Argent, to strike out on their own. Armed with their extensive command of haute cuisine, and often support of the master chefs who trained them, these young chefs have invested in small establishments in ordinary working-class Parisian neighbourhoods, combed the market for the best in seasonal produce, and created the single-most influential change on the gastronomic landscape since nouvelle cuisine.
Recently opened by two young entrepreneurs in an area of the 10th arondissement that’s undergoing some serious gentrification, this formerly decrepit café has been transformed into a pleasant, modern bistro offering generous portions for a three-course, €30 menu. Typical dishes include popping (soft-boiled) egg with cèpe and girolle mushrooms, and blood sausage toast and scallops with chestnut sauce. The service is cool and relaxed, and the charming Canal Saint Martin is just a few minutes away. 48, rue Louis Blanc, 75010;
