EASY RIDER

It’s one of the most dynamic cities in the world. So it’s only right to explore Barcelona in a cool and adventurous way – on two wheels!

BY GINNY CUMMING

When visiting Barcelona for the very first time, most people have a hit-list of “must-see” landmarks and monuments, usually topped by the architectural wonders of the eccentric genius, Antoni Gaudí. Popping over to the Catalonian capital recently for a girlie weekend jaunt, my friend Kate and I arrived armed with such a list, meticulously researched and ready to be executed with military precision (okay, okay – we had some tips from friends and a map).

We crammed in as much as we could on the first day, rambling along La Rambla, getting lost in the cobbled streets of the Gothic quarter, indulging our passion for shopping (I did say it was a girlie weekend) and staring in bewilderment at “delicacies” like candied insects in the incredible La Boqueria food market (more about that anon).

But later that night at Ciudad Condal (Rambla de Catalunya 18 – which, we were reliably informed, serves the best tapas in Barcelona), over a glass of wine and far too many plates of tapas, a quick glance at our hit-list confirmed our mounting suspicion: there’s simply too much to see in this vibrant city in one weekend. Even if we applied a crafty combination of public transport and power-walking on our second day, it would be a race against the clock – and who wants to rush on a holiday? We amended our plans for the next day accordingly, and resigned ourselves to the very pleasant notion that we’d just have to come back another time to see and do the rest...

However, the next morning, in a brochure at a tourist office, we accidentally stumbled upon the answer to our (admittedly, not very serious) dilemma. Last year, a company called Cooltra joined forces with the tourist office to present the “official” scooter tour of Barcelona, and the results have been phenomenal. In just 12 months it’s become the way to explore this incredible city, and we were keen to give it a go – and, in the process, get to tick everything on our list. With absolutely no experience on scooters whatsoever, we signed up for what turned out to be the highlight of our trip.

It’s all so easy. A quick lesson prior to the tour proved that riding these automatic 125cc scooters is a breeze. For me, the biggest worry was map-reading (never my strong point) and translating Spanish road signs (I had visions of us driving the wrong way down a one-way street and causing an international incident that would sour UK/Spanish relations forever). But that’s the beauty of these tours: as well as a scooter, helmet and insurance (phew!), you also get your own tour guide. They not only provide a fantastic overview of the history and culture at each stopping point, but also remove all the stress from the experience by taking control of the route. You simply “follow the leader” and let them do all the work, leaving you free to enjoy the fun of scooting (does such a word exist?!) and the visual feast that is Barcelona. And, unlike conventional tours in a bus or car, when you can feel a bit removed from the action, a scooter lets you feel truly connected with the city: feeling the sun on your skin as you zip around like a local, taking in all the sights, sounds and smells of Barcelona as you whiz by.

And on top of all this, it’s just cool. There’s something about hitting the road on two wheels that screams fun and freedom... and when you’re doing it in a picturesque city like Barcelona, the result is, quite simply, the best day out.

We covered so much territory on our tour, so following is a selection of just some of the places we visited… and some of the fellow tourists we encountered along the way!

Sagrada Família

First stop: THE TEMPLE EXPIATORI DE LA SAGRADA FAMILIA (Church of the Holy Family). The most ambitious project from Barcelona’s most famous son, architect Antoni Gaudí, is hugely popular and super-busy, but there are no problems getting here or finding a park when you’re on a scooter! Work on this fantastic structure started in 1883 and was incomplete when Gaudí died in 1926. Luckily, his plans survived, and work continues to this day (hence the scaffolding!).

Photos can’t do it justice – if you capture its massive size, you lose the magnificent detail, and vice versa. You simply must see it with your own eyes. The finished parts of the church and its towers are open for viewing, but expect long queues!

We chatted to Elizabeth and Hannah (both from the UK) on the steps of the Sagrada Família

E: “I’m living here for three months, teaching English to Spanish people as part of my university degree. I thought we’d start our day here at Sagrada Família, then head down towards the Barri Gòtic area and La Rambla, on to La Boqueria markets and Casa Milà.

A great thing to do on a Sunday (when lots of things are closed) is to go to Barceloneta down by the beach and jump on the cable car – you get a great view of the city. I also love all the little tapas restaurants, especially in the El Born area. My best tip for any English tourists wanting a cup of tea is that over here, they seem to think milk doesn’t go with tea, and if they do give it to you, it’s usually hot! Make sure you specifically ask for cold milk!”

H: “I’m just here for the weekend – it’s my first time in Barcelona. Everyone’s so friendly and they all want to practice their English with you – which is great if you don’t speak Spanish, but bad for me as I’m trying to practise!”

Casa Milà

As well as Sagrada Familia, Barcelona has several other truly great landmarks all designed by Gaudí (and all visited by us on scooter!). The use of irregular lines, asymmetric shapes, mosaics and stained glass was his trademark, and even the biggest architecture duffer can spot a Gaudí from a hundred paces – they are instantly recognisable. Such is the case with CASA MILA [commonly known as La Pedrera; left], an apartment block on one of the major avenues in Barcelona, Passeig de Gràcia. Amazingly, it does not incorporate a single straight line! Built between 1906 and 1910, it was Gaudí’s last project before he started work on the (still unfinished) Sagrada Família.

We bumped into Leta & Eric (from Philadelphia, USA) in the queue for Casa Mila

E: “After spending four days in Rome, we arrived in Barcelona yesterday for another four days. We came here to see the architecture and Gaudí museum, and just immerse ourselves in a different culture.“

L: “We’re going to sightsee all day, and then we think we’ll go to Montserrat tomorrow. It’s a beautiful mountain about 60km from the city. It’s also the site of a really old Benedictine abbey, so it should be very interesting.”

Another must-see: La Boqueria market

There’s a saying in Barcelona: “If you can’t find it in La Boqueria, you can’t find it anywhere.” And after spending a delightful morning at this incredible food market (apparently the biggest, oldest and best in all of Europe), and witnessing firsthand the incredible range of comida fresca (fresh food) on display, I can totally believe this claim!

It’s a feast for every sense. Pyramids of exotic fruits tower over eye-catching displays of chocolates and sweets in lurid colours found nowhere in nature; every species of fish and crustacean imagineable (and a few that defy identification!) twitch on piles of ice; and edible insects provide a great topic of conversation (caramel-covered scorpions, anyone?). The Spanish proverb, “Del cerdo se aprovecha todo”, definitely holds true here: “All parts of the pig are to be enjoyed.” And from what I could see, this doesn’t just apply to pigs! Those true gourmands who go into raptures over offal and sweetbreads are in for a treat here.

And after working up an appetite as you wander around, gazing in awe, wonderment and disbelief, you can pull up a stool at one of the small bars/restaurants scattered around the market. On offer is some of the finest Catalan fare in the city – and of course you can be sure it’s all super-fresh!

Built in 1836 on the site of a former convent (and officially named Mercat de Sant Josep), there’s apparently been a market here ever since the 13th century. It’s located at 100 La Rambla and open every day except Sunday. An absolute must!

Spanish haven

“Home” during our stay in Spain’s second-largest city was the delightful Le Meridien Barcelona, a luxury hotel right on the famous La Rambla. You simply couldn’t ask for a better location, within easy distance of the picturesque harbour, Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter), theatres, museums and restaurants. The temptation to go out and experience them all will definitely be strong, but if you stay in, you’re in for a treat.

The hotel has recently undergone a €30 million refurbishment, and the results are as striking as the welcome is warm. The glamorous lobby and reception area set the scene for what you can expect in the guest rooms on the floors above... it’s all about sophistication, warmth and comfort. There are 233 in total – including beautiful suites on the top four floors – and they are the epitome of contemporary chic. Crisp white linens on the plushest, comfiest beds are complemented by dark timber and accents of vivid red. Ultra-modern bathrooms with the deepest tubs and the best showers ever beckon travellers weary from a day out exporing this fantastic city, and of course there’s every mod con you’d expect in a hotel of this high standard, including plasma screen TVs (including one in the bathroom!) and high-speed internet access.

Breakfasts are a definite highlight – everything from piles of smoked salmon and delicious meats and cheeses, to huge bowls of pomegranates and even strawberry milkshakes! And of course there’s every ingredient for a good old fry-up. Comfort and style are the bywords at Le Meridien Barcelona, and when you combine this with an unparalleled level of service, it makes a soujourn here truly special. Madonna, the Rolling Stones, Luciano Pavarotti and Bruce Springsteen are just some of the celebs to have stayed here over the years, so you’ll definitely be in good company!

Le Meridien Barcelona; La Rambla 111, Barcelona; tel: +34 (93) 318 6200; www.meridien.com/barcelona

A SPEEDY GETAWAY

For a fun snapshot of Barcelona, book a scooter tour with Cooltra. No previous scooter experience is necessary, but you must have held a full driving licence for a minimum of three years and be at least 21 years old. You’ll receive a safety and instruction briefing before heading off on an organised tour – or you can create your own itinerary. Cooltra is based in six Spanish destinations, including Barcelona, Mallorca and Madrid, and also offers scooter rentals and sales. Prices start from €45; for more info, go to www.cooltra.com or www.barcelonaturisme.cat

GETTING THERE

bmibaby flies to Barcelona from Birmingham, Cardiff and Manchester. Fares start from just £31.99 including taxes. For more information, log on to www.bmibaby.com