A day at the bay
watergate bay is one of Cornwall’s most famous – and fabulous – beaches, revered by families, foodies and fun-loving adventure-seekers alike. we spent a few hours at the home of the extreme Academy and Jamie Oliver’s sublime restaurant, Fifteen cornwall
BY GINNY CUMMING
PHOTOGRAPHY SIMON KEITCH
9.30AM
A day at the Bay really gets going when the RNLI lifeguards start their shift. The popularity and sheer size of Watergate Bay demand three people patrol the 2km-long sweep of beach on a normal day, with the number rising to five or six during peak season. Today, Stephen Daley (28), Jack Butler (19) and Kerk Latham (22) are on duty, and first on their long list of things to do is the daily pre-op equipment check. While Stephen and Kerk give jetskis, lifejackets and long-range radios a thorough going-over, Jack heads off in the truck to set up various signs and the all-important flags (red-and-yellow for swimmers and body boarders, black-and-white for wave skis and surfboards). “They’re moved throughout the day in accord with the changing conditions,” says Jack [above], who is in his third year as a professional lifeguard. “We do a lot of ‘shepherding’ – keeping people between the appropriate flags. Most of our call-outs could be prevented if people would just stick to the golden rule: swim between the flags!”
10.00AM
Tassy Swallow, 16, from St Ives, exits the water after completing her heat in the Under-18 girls’ final of the English National Surfing Championships. There’s a surf competition almost every weekend throughout summer in Cornwall. National and international surf stars compete along with local talent like Tassy, making it a great spectacle for fans of the sport. So any tips from the youngster who’s already been surfing for eight years? “Respect the other surfers, and stick at it – it gets more fun!”
11.15AM
The front of house team at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen Cornwall holds its daily pre-lunch briefing. The menu changes daily – in accord with the availability of fresh produce – so these meetings are vital to ensure everyone’s up to speed and service runs smoothly. The restaurant is rightly famous for its genius mission – to empower young people in need of a second chance by training them as chefs – and of course its amazing food.
11.45AM
The sight of newlyweds walking hand-in-hand on the beach – still kitted out in their wedding finery – brings a smile to everyone’s face. The Hotel & Extreme Academy, which stands sentinel above the Bay, is a glorious location for a reception, and guests can stay in the hotel’s 69 beautiful rooms (hey, if it’s good enough for Prince William!). Adrenalin-pumping activities are also on offer here, including surfing, kitesurfing and waveskiing.
Tel: +44 (0)1637 860543, www.watergatebay.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0)1637 861000, www.fifteencornwall.co.uk
12.30PM
It’s not just people who love this beach – there are plenty of four-legged fans as well. We spot at least a dozen lovely mutts scampering across the sands during our day at Watergate Bay – including a friendly springer spaniel [above], and two huskies playfighting with a Lagotto Romagnolo, an Italian breed that’s traditionally bred as a water retriever, but also trained to hunt for truffles. They’re admired by the sweetest Japanese toddler who’s almost lifted off the ground by the kite he’s flying!
1.00PM
Lunch is well underway at Fifteen Cornwall and the chefs are hard at work in the kitchen (black hats for the professionals, white hats for the trainees). Cornish fisherman’s stew (with lemon sole, brill, John Dory, mussels, squid, chick peas, agretti and laverbread aioli) is one of today’s mouth-watering offerings. The three-course set menu (for just £26) often features hand-dived scallops. But as they come straight from the ocean, delivery time can vary wildly – sometimes after service has already started!
1.30PM
In the lead-up to her big day in Gloucestershire on 10 July, London-based bride-to-be Lucy McKenzie has come to Cornwall with 10 of her best mates. Central to the weekend hen party is a three-hour learn to surf lesson. “All you need is a swimsuit, a towel and a shot of Dutch courage,” the girls laugh, while getting stuck into a bottle of bubbles. The promise of post-surf hot chocolates laced with rum and a slap-up cream tea helps too! O’Neill Surf Academy, tel: +44 (0)1841 520052, www.oneillsurfacademy.co.uk
2.00PM
It never stops for Watergate Bay’s lifeguards: a novice surfer has landed awkwardly on his first outing on a board, dislocating a shoulder in the process. “We see a lot of dislocations like this – and sore heads when people get hit by boards during wipe-outs,” explains senior beach lifeguard, Stephen Daley [right]. Patient despatched to the local hospital, Steve then surveys the beach from the hut using powerful binoculars and a well-trained eye. Originally from South Africa (but with no trace of an accent!), Steve has been with the RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution) for five years, and his deep suntan attests to a life spent on the beach. Internationally recognised lifeguard qualifications (such as NARS, the National Aquatic Rescue Standard) mean lifeguards are eligible to work on the beach pretty much anywhere in the world. “The season in Newquay begins at Easter and runs until the end of September, and you find that many lifeguards travel during the ‘off season’ – going on surfing holidays or working on beaches overseas in places like Australia and New Zealand. It’s not unusual to be in a far-flung tropical destination and bump into fellow lifeguards from back home!” Steve has also participated in a lifeguard exchange, working in New Zealand with another British lifeguard for a 16-week season, while two Kiwis patrolled beaches in the UK. It’s a great life for an ocean-loving, outdoorsy type of person; truly a dream job for many – even if you don’t particularly like the water! As Steve says: “It’s all about education and prevention – a good lifeguard doesn’t get wet!”
2.40PM
Richard (26), a kitesurfer from Brighton, launches into the water in spectacular style… but not before extolling the virtues of his beloved sport. He has been coming to Cornwall for years, but his passion for kitesurfing only took hold four years ago. “You’d be surprised how quickly you can become proficient in this sport,” he says. “A few lessons and a one- or two-week holiday spent kitesuring every day and you’ll quickly get good.” He’s noticed that kitesurfing seems to scare girls -even hardcore surfers – but insists it’s not as daunting as it looks. “It’s not about power or strength, it’s all about technique,” he explains. It’s all about money, too – this is not a cheap hobby: “A brand new kite will set you back about £800 (and you really need two kites to cope with different conditions), a board is roughly £400 or £500, while a harness is about £80.” With so much money going towards equipment, Richard often camps out when he comes to Cornwall, but this weekend he’s staying in a flat at nearby Fistral Beach. Finally, his favourite haunts for a night out? “Anywhere here at Watergate Bay, plus I also like the Chy Bar, opposite the Walkabout in Newquay.” The Chy Bar & Kitchen, 12 Beach Road, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 1ES, tel: +44 (0)1637 873415.
3.30PM
A few steps back from the bay, The Phoenix Bar and Restaurant – a super-casual beach hangout much loved by locals – is packed. Emma (29), Anna (28) and Ian (30) are all recovering from a big night celebrating Ian’s birthday at a pie and ale festival (where there was “a distinct lack of pie, but lots of ale!”). They all used to work at Watergate Bay – it’s how they met – and regularly catch up for Sunday drinks on the Phoenix’s large timber deck (“It’s a brilliant suntrap”). These days, Emma [below] is a doctor, Anna’s a teacher and Ian [top, with Anna] is a carpenter. “We’ve got proper jobs – when did that happen?” he laughs. “I want to work on the beach again!” Even so, it’s a great lifestyle in Cornwall: “In summer you finish work at 5pm, go for a surf and then have a beer… five nights a week!” The Phoenix Bar and Restaurant, tel: +44 (0)1637 860353, www.phoenixwatergate.co.uk
B&B bliss
Hands up if you’ve never stayed at a B&B, turned off by visions of fussy florals and Hyacinth Bucket-wannabes fretting over octogenarian guests? Seavista will banish this notion forever and make you a total B&B convert. Here, it’s all about total relaxation and a contemporary, casual style inspired by the beach. Just round the corner from Watergate Bay in Mawgan Porth, Seavista is run by husband-and-wife team Ozzie and Kate (and their little dog, Mojo). Staying here is like staying with exceptionally kind, welcoming friends – as well as laying on scrumptious breakfasts (all made to order using locally sourced produce), Kate and Ozzie will even act as chauffeurs if you need a lift! Extra touches like this are all included in the amazing tariff: just £30 or £35 per person per night, even during peak season (children under two free; 50% off for 3–11-year-olds). Seavista Hotel, Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, TR8 4AL, tel: +44 (0)1637 860276, www.seavista.co.uk
