Faro X 5
More than just the gateway to the Algarve, Faro has plenty of attractions for all types of holidaymakers. Just choose the type of traveller you are, then follow the guide for you
BY MATTHEW HANCOCK
While Faro is undeniably the perfect pushing-off point for a vacation on the Algarve, it’s also a brilliant holiday destination in its own right. The palm-lined waterfront hugs a plush marina and its Old Town gazes over the waters of a pristine nature reserve. Its compact size means it’s easy to negotiate by public transport and it’s just a little hop to a plethora of fishing villages, market towns and cultural sites, making it a good base for a longer visit.
So, whether you’re ready to explore a new destination, watching the pennies, travelling with children, or looking for a memorable experience of seafood or foreign culture, you’ll find it here.
01 FIRST-TIME VISITORS
Don’t worry about the off-putting suburbs: once in the centre, Faro’s charms will quickly become apparent
DAYTIME: Get your bearings on the Comboio Turístico, a dinky land train which runs hourly from 10.30am–5.30pm from the waterfront on Jardim Manuel Bívar, round the old town and back via the food market (tel: +351 91 559 9300, €3.50 per person) or traipse the old town on foot.
LUNCH BREAK: The Algarve’s famous seafood and cataplana stews can be enjoyed at the waterside Faro e Benfica (Doca de Faro, tel: +351 289 821422).
AFTER DARK: Sip a caipirinha cocktail at Columbus (Praça Dr Francisco Gomes, www.barcolumbus.com), a cosy lounge bar with outdoor seats under the arcades and views of the marina.
SHOPPING: J Carminho (21 & 29 Rua de Santo António, tel: +351 289 826522) showcases the best of the Algarve’s crafts, including embroidery, ceramics and attractive souvenirs.
HOTEL: Hotel Faro (from €106 for a double, 2 Praça Dr Francisco Gomes, tel: +351 289 830830, www.hotelfaro.pt) has brilliant views from the top-floor breakfast room and modern bedrooms, the best facing the marina.
02 ON A BUDGET
Although Portugal is relatively inexpensive, prices in the Algarve are higher, yet bargains are still to be had
DAYTIME: Buses 14 and 16 run from Faro’s bus station on the Avenida da Republica past the airport to the nearest beach, which takes about 25 minutes and costs less than €2. The splendid Praia de Faro is actually a long sandspit island where you can spend a day soaking up the rays for free.
LUNCH BREAK: Café Gardy (16 Rua de Santo António, tel: +351 289 824062) has the best cakes and pastries in town, and also serves inexpensive salads and light lunches.
AFTER DARK: The liveliest bars cluster round Rua Conselheiro Bívar. A good first port of call is the laid-back Upa Upa (51 Rua Conselheiro Bívar, tel: +351 289 807832) with outdoor seats on a pedestrianised stretch.
SHOPPING: Just 8km east of Faro, the region’s best market can be found along the waterfront in the neighbouring town of Olhão – buy fresh fish and produce for a lavish picnic for under €5 (7am – 2pm Tuesday to Friday, 6.30am – 3pm Saturday, Avenida 5 de Outubro, Olhão).
HOTEL: Faro is well stocked with good value guesthouses or, for a hotel, the Hotel Sol Algarve (from €65 for a double, 52 Rua Infante Dom Henrique,tel: +351 289 895700, www.residencialalgarve.com). It’s welcoming, spotless and centrally located.
03 FAMILIES & CHILDREN
With its pedestrianised shopping streets, child-friendly locals and quaint Old Town, Faro is just right for families
DAYTIME: Take one of the daily nature boat tours (weather permitting) to the evocative-sounding Ilha Deserta – Portugal’s most southerly point – via wetlands alive with seabirds (adults, €20; children, €10, tel: + 351 918 779155, www.ilha-deserta.com).
LUNCH BREAK: Whether you’re after local ice cream, pizzas or healthy salads, you can have them at Café do Coreto (Jardim Manuel Bívar, tel: +351 289 822964) at reasonable prices, sitting outside facing the marina.
AFTER DARK: Stoke up the kids at the buzzy Adega Nova (24 Rua Francisco Barreto, tel: +351 289 813433) and impress them by ordering bife na pedra – a steak cooked on a hot rock brought to your table.
SHOPPING: A treasure trove for local produce, Rui Garrafeira (28 Praça Ferreira de Almeida, tel: +351 289 822803) stocks local wines and cheeses for you, and tempting chocolates and confectionary for the kids – or get pastries and make everyone happy.
HOTEL: With a rooftop pool with marina views and breakfast served from 5am in case the kids wake early, Hotel Eva (family rooms from €155, 1 Avenida da República, tel: +351 289 001000, www.tdhotels.pt) ranks top for child-friendly accommodation.
04 URBAN HIPSTERS
Faro is a little too sleepy to be cutting edge, but you can still enjoy a few slices of urban cool in this sunny city
DAYTIME: Not many cities boast a chapel completely lined with human bones, but that’s what you’ll find at the ghoulish Capela dos Ossos, adjacent to the twin-towered Igreja do Carmo. The bones are those of monks and the original idea was to shock visitors into a sinless life. (Largo do Carmo, tel: +351 289 824490).
LUNCH BREAK: For hip décor and top seafood, look no further than Camané (Avenida Nascente Praia de Faro, tel: +351 289 817539), one of the area’s top restaurants an olive’s throw from the beach.
AFTER DARK: Galeria Bar Património (19 Rua do Prior, tel: +351 289 803177/919 846405) is currently the hottest place in town, with regular DJ sessions – though pace yourself – it doesn’t get going before 2am.
SHOPPING: While away a few hours – it stays open till midnight – at the modern Forum Algarve (N125, tel: +351 289 889300, www.forumalgarve.net), with a range of modern clothes stores and shopping outlets.
HOTEL: Head 11km north to the classy Pousada do Palácio de Estoi (doubles from €180, Estoi, tel: +351 289 990150) with boutique flair and 19th-century opulence.
05 CULTURE VULTURES
The historic capital of the Algarve has a select, well-presented array of cultural and architectural highlights
DAYTIME: The beautiful cloisters of a former convent now host the Museu Municipal de Faro (14 Largo D Afonso III, tel: +351 289 897400, www.ipmuseus.pt), displaying priceless archaeological finds dating back to Roman and Moorish times, as well as paintings, jewellery and tiles.
LUNCH BREAK: Dois Irmãos (14 Largo Terreiro do Bispo, tel: +351 289 823 337) is the archetypal Portuguese restaurant, with sumptuous seafood, beautiful tiles and its own patio garden. It’s also Faro’s oldest restaurant, serving regional dishes from original recipes since 1925.
AFTER DARK: Check out what’s on at Teatro Lethes (59 Rua de Portugal, tel: +351 289 820300, www.teatrolethes.pt), a lavish gem of a theatre dating back to the 17th century which started life as a Jesuit college.
SHOPPING: Stunning reclaimed decorative tiles, some from the 16th century, make a perfect Portuguese gift from Joaquim da Silva Carneiro (6 Rua da Porta Nova, tel: +351 289 826706).
HOTEL: Originally a family home, the Casa de Estói (from €120 for a double room, 80 Rua de Faro, Estoi, tel: +351 289 990170, www.casadeestoi.com), 11km north of Faro, simply oozes character, with rooms wrapped round an internal courtyard with its own pool for you to slip into.
