About 190km west of the Italian peninsula lies Sardinia, an emerald jewel in the sea. Conquer it with our map and guide
BY INDIA STURGIS/JESSICA PIKE
ILLUSTRATIONS BY SPENCER WILSON
SARDINIA HAS HISTORICALLY BEEN AS slippery to keep hold of as its fishy namesake, being invaded over the last 1,000 years by everyone from the Romans and ancient Egyptians to the Spanish and even the Austrians. This legacy ensures that, despite being peacefully subsumed into Italy for the last 250 years, the island is still home to an exciting and exotic mishmash of cultures.
This is particularly true of Alghero’s Old Town, where renaissance, Venetian, Moorish and gothic styles of architecture vie for the wandering vistor’s attention. The Old Town’s dramatic bastioni, or city walls, were built to keep out would-be invaders – a fact that today’s visitor, peacefully sipping a locally distilled lemoncello at a local café, may find hard to imagine.
Nicknamed Little Barcelona, the city spent 400 years under the governance of Spain and is still renowned for its Catalonian style of architecture, cuisine and language.
It’s not just a haven for culture buffs though. Foodies can savour fresh seafood, spit-roasted suckling pig and Sardinian cheese (distinct and unforgettable thanks to the wild herbs on which the island’s sheep graze), while adventure lovers can go deep-sea cave diving at the underground Grotta di Nereo and explore a spectacular coastline.
As countless conquistadors have discovered, there are plenty of reasons to invade this charming part of the world.
ALGHERO ‘ S OLD TOWN
1 RISTORANTE MABROUK
4 Via Santa Barbara, tel: +39 347 239 0093 Down a cobbled side street, this homespun fresh-fish restaurant serves a four-course set menu, which reassuringly varies with the day’s catch. About €40 per person including wine.
2 TRENINO CATALANO
From Alghero Harbour, tel: +39 336 691836 Get your bearings with a trundle around the Old Town on this little red and yellow tourist train. Adults, €5; children, €3. Departures daily from the harbour, every 30 minutes from 10am (with a break for siesta).
3 LA CORALLINA
79/81 Via Roma, tel: +39 (0)79 979064 Alghero is famous for its coral jewellery, gathered from offshore reefs. Try this jeweller on the main shopping street for this local specialty, avoiding the hours of 1-3pm, when most shops close for siesta.
4 PORT OF ALGHERO
Porto di Alghero, www.marinadisantelmo.it Just a medieval stone’s throw from Alghero’s centre is this picturesque port. Enjoy a wander past its floating piers and admire the brightly coloured fishing boats.
5 ENODOLCIARIA DI RENZO DETTORI
24 Via Simon, tel: +39 (0)79 979741, www.enodolciaria.it Sardinian honey, organic wine and pickled vegetables are just some of the delicacies on sale at this favourite local deli. You might only pop in for a look, but you’ll be sure to leave laden with goodies.
6 THE ANDREA JENSEN SAILING BOAT
Porto di Alghero, www.ajsailing.com Enjoy the clear waters, sea breeze and rugged Sardinian coastline aboard this traditional wooden sailing boat. Lunch and snorkelling equipment are included. Day trip: adults €99, children €49.
7 MARE NOSTRUM AQUARIUM
1 Via XX Settembre, tel: +39 (0)79 978333, www.aquariumalghero.it Visit tankfuls of Mediterranean fish, from deadly sharks to sea horses. Make sure you stop to “sea” the lethal stonefish and giant sea turtle too. Adults, €8; children, €5.
8 FOOD MARKETS
Via Sassari The smell of ripe fruit lingers in the air at this local fruit and vegetable market. Go early to get the best pick of produce, including fresh vegetables, fruit and fish. Every day, 8.30am – 1pm.
9 ST MARY’S CATHEDRAL
Piazza Duomo, tel: +39 (0)79 979222 A prime example of gothic-Catalan architecture, Alghero’s small but perfectly formed cathedral has a sandstone bell tower and marble interior. Don’t miss a trip to the unusual Catalan goldsmithery, housed in St Mary’s sacristy.
10 RISTORANTE NETTUNO
4 Via Maddalanetta, tel: +39 (0)79 979774 Soak up the hustle and bustle of marina life by securing a table on this Italian restaurant’s balcony. Enjoy the traditional Italian fare with seafood, but be prepared for higher-than-usual prices for the view.
OUTSIDE ALGHERO
MORES RACEWAY
(70km from Alghero) Su Sassu, Mores, www.autodromosardegna.net Calling all petrol heads! This racetrack in Mores is perfect for satisfying your need for speed. Burn rubber in fast cars or super-bikes, or watch the action from the 3,000-person capacity grandstand. From €30 for a 25 minute drive.
GROTTA DI NEREO
(24km from Alghero) Capo Caccia, www.adventurediving.it The biggest underwater cave in Europe, it’s considered one of the best diving sites in the Med, with coral-covered walls, countless archways, air chambers and 500m-long tunnels.
GROTTA DI NETTUNO
(24km from Alghero) Capo Caccia, www.sardegnaturismo.it These sea-level caverns stretch out for 2.5km around clear lakes and awesome rock formations. The grotto is accessible by car or boat, entry: adults, €12; children, €6.
THE NURAGHE DI PALMAVERA
(10km from Alghero) Alongside the road to Porto Conte out of Alghero, www.algherosardinia.net The nuraghe are megalithic stone structures in the Sardinian countryside and date back to 1000 BC. Palmavera is the place to come and gawp at these ancient dwellings: you’ll find a palace and 50 stone huts. Entry, €3; with guided tour, €5.
LA SPERANZA BEACH
(10km from Alghero) La Speranza beach, www.algherosardinia.net A sandy white beach with great surf that’s popular with a young crowd. There are numerous cafés as well as boats to hire.
PUNTA DEL GIGLIO CLIFFS
(13km from Alghero) Torre Nuova, www.sardegnaturismo.it These jutting limestone cliffs above the bay are popular with walkers and cyclists and are an excellent place for a picnic.
SELLA & MOSCA VINEYARDS
(11km from Alghero) Localita l Piani, tel: +39 (0)79 997700, www.sellaemosca.com One of the biggest wineries in Europe to exclusively use its own grapes, this vineyard is over 100 years old. Go on a guided tour or just try a glass or two.
ARGENTIERA
(34km from Alghero) Argentiera, www.algherosardinia.net Until 1963, this ghost town was home to a silver mine, but the shiny stuff ran out and the inhabitants left. Explore the empty mineshafts, houses and chapel for free.
ASINARA NATIONAL PARK
(56km to Stintino, then a 30-minute ferry ride to the island of Asinara) www.parcoasinara.org, www.parks.it Asinara means “place of donkeys” in Italian, named for the wild albino donkeys that roam here. The park can be explored by foot or in off-road cars, and is home to other rare species. Ferry €6 return; free entry to park.
NECROPOLIS OF ANGHELU RÙJU
(10km from Alghero) Near the airport, alongside the Porto Torres Road, www.algherosardinia.net This 5,000-year-old series of artificial caves was a refuge for prehistoric people for hundreds of years and is the island’s finest archeological site. Entry €2.
