BY CATHY ADAMS / ILLUSTRATION: THE BOY FITZ HAMMOND
Since the 8th century, Bordeaux has been at the centre of French wine production, and today around 850 million bottles of wine are produced in the region every year. But don’t be fooled into thinking that Bordeaux is a one-trick pony – it’s a city rich in culture and history. If you can’t handle your vino, spend an evening watching opera or ballet at the Grand Théâtre, or wander through its squares and across the Pont de Pierre over the Garonne river.
But if you really are all about the wine, then the city more than lives up to its reputation. Laid-back during the day, at night Bordeaux throws open its hedonistic arms to the pleasure-seekers of the south-west. While away the small hours with a late-night glass at glitzy Place de la Bourse or shake your hips to salsa, electro-jazz or blues at one of the city’s many nightclubs.
Using our handy guide, make like a Bordelais and grab a glass in any one of these quirky, swanky or just downright boozy bars and restaurants. The best part? They’re all right in the city centre, which means less of a walk back to your hotel after a few too many Merlots…
1 BAUD & MILLET
19 rue Hugerie, www.baudetmillet.fr
Feeling cheesy? At this small bar and restaurant you can stuff yourself with an all -cheese dish – or go for “le dinner’s trophy”, an evening’s entertainment of cheese, wine and French culture organised by its effervescent owner, Gérard Baud.
2 PHILIPPE CHEZ DUBERN
44 Allée de Tourny, www.philippe-chez-dubern.com
A sumptuous restaurant that has become something of an institution in Bordeaux – the seafood is outstanding – don your best outfit if you dine here: the large 18th-century rooms have crystal chandeliers hanging from the ceiling.
3 LE CAFÉ GOURMAND
3 rue Buffon, tel: +33 (0)5 5679 2385
Bizarrely, Paris and America sit well together at Le Café Gourmand, though a bit disconcerting are the smiling pictures of Marilyn Monroe, Obama and JFK on its walls. Relax with a burger and eggs benedict.
4 LE NOAILLES
12 Allée de Tourny, tel: +33 (0)5 5681 9445
France’s infamous café culture is in full swing at this charming brasserie. Sink into a red velour booth inside or watch the world go by outside. Specialties include grilled sole and steak tartare.
5 BAR A VIN DU CIVB
3 Cours du 30 Juillet, http://baravin.bordeaux.com
All you would expect from a wine bar underneath the headquarters of the Bordeaux Wine Council – a place to see and be seen, this swish bar combines neoclassical stained-glass windows with modern seating areas.
6 CAFÉ NAPOLEON 3
6 Cours du 30 Juillet, www.cafenapoleon3.com
Although this charming café was only created 30 years ago, it sports the style of Napoleon III with its intricate wooden paneling. In a prime spot next to the tourist office, the café is often awash with young professionals of every nationality.
7 CHEZ GREG GRAND THÉÂTRE
Le Grand Théâtre, 29 rue Esprit des Lois, www.chezgreg.fr
Bordeaux’s hippest hangout: right behind an 18th-century colonial residence on the banks of the Garonne, yet the cuisine and décor are resolutely contemporary. Eat Thai green curry and sushi in a haven of white furnishings and large glass windows. The unique selling point is Le Club Wine Junkies, a group of wines tasted and recommended by the master sommeliers.
8 CAFÉ OPERA
Grand Théâtre, Place de la Comédie, tel: +33 (0)5 5644 0700
Located within the opera hall of Bordeaux, this bar and restaurant has its roots in wine education: on the first Sunday of each month it hosts a wine-tasting session with the grower-owners, who present their latest offering.
9 LE VICTOR BAR AT THE REGENT GRAND HOTEL
2-5 Place de la Comédie, www.regenthotels.com
If you like a bit of posh, step into this sumptuous hotel bar for a cocktail or three. It was designed in homage to author Victor Hugo and architect Victor Louis – so sink into deep gold sofas and let the soft jazz and quality wine relax you after a long day.
10 MAX BORDEAUX WINE GALLERY
14 Cours de l’Intendance, www.maxbordeaux.blogspot.com
Dubbed by the director of the Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery as a “space for discovery and relishing”, this spanking new sampler-style bar offers 48 local wines to swish around your mouth until your heart’s content.
11 LA ROBE
3 Quai Louis XVIII, www.la-robe.fr
Women come out on top at glitzy bar and restaurant La Robe, which serves up 120 local wines, produced only by women, as its owner combined the two things he loves most: wine and women!
12 LE BISTROT DU 20
20 rue des Piliers de Tutelle, http://lebistrodu20.monsite.orange.fr
A stone’s throw from the Grand Théâtre, this laid-back bistro attracts the arty types of the south-west, offering typical French fare and a wine list of, as the name suggests, 20 local wines.
13 BRASSERIE BORDELAISE
50 rue Saint Remi, www.brasseriebordelaise.fr
This chic, rustic brasserie offers nearly 300 wines as well as tender steak. It deserves all the media hype – the dim ambience of the low ceilings and wooden tables make it the perfect place to relax.
14 LE GABRIEL
10 Place de la Bourse, www.bordeaux-gabriel.fr
This recently opened restaurant plays host to an award-winning chef, François Adamski. Expect sublime steaks and dazzling Champagne. A word of advice – luxury doesn’t come cheap.
15 BAR DU BOUCHER
5 rue du Parlement Sainte Catherine, www.barduboucher.com
Is it a restaurant? Is it a nightclub? No, it’s a traditional olde worlde steak house that plays host to 80’s pop/rock live music at the weekend. Oh, and there are some classic Bordeaux wines too.
16 LE PETIT COMMERCE
22 rue du Parlement-Saint-Pierre, www.le-petit-commerce.info
The fresh catches of the day from the ports of Royon and Archachon on the Atlantic coast are served up at this convivial canteen-style fish restaurant and wine bar, with free Wififor diners.
17 LE BÔ BAR
8 Place Saint-Pierre, www.lebobar.fr
Its motto is simple: food must accompany drink, so this small wine bar serves up large platters of cheese and meat alongside traditional south-western cuisine. As well as classic wines, Bô Bar also serves up biodynamic and organic wines.
18 GRAND BAR CASTAN
2 Quai de la Douane, tel: +33 (0)5 5644 5197
This is one of the oldest bars in Bordeaux, dating back to 1890, and has managed to keep some of its original art deco-like charm. Join traditional French café culture out on the garden terrace with a glass of Beaujolais and the house specialty, a croque monsieur.
19 LE PETIT BOIS
18 rue du Chai des Farines, tel: +33 (0)5 6799 0646
A Narnia-esque bar serving up an international array of wines to complement a selection of cheeses and cold meats. It owes a lot to CS Lewis – the mirrors, canopy of trees and coloured lanterns all contribute to the magical atmosphere.
20 LE WINE BAR
Quartier Saint Pierre, 19 rue des Bahutiers, www.lewinebar-bordeaux.com
Get yourself a wine education at this originally named wine bar(!). Wine experts will help you make the perfect choice from over 500 wines to complement the large platters of Basque meats and cheeses that you’ll be expected to wolf down.
