LLUSTRATION: PESKIMO @ SYNERGY ART
Sometimes known as the City of a Hundred Spires, Prague was spared destruction in World War II, which means its historic centre is unique as one of the few European cityscapes to have survived almost entirely intact.
And, since the fall of the Iron Curtain less than 20 years ago, Prague has embraced capitalism: you’llfind endless shopping, eating and drinking possibilities around every corner of the maze-like centre.
Wander down the narrow passageways lined with quaint houses and you’ll be treated to a truly awesome amount of art nouveau, cubist and neo-classical archecture. Feasting your eyes on it all is entertainment in itself, making this afinancially light destination. However, if you’re so inclined, there are lots of ways to part with your readies, including more nightlife than you could get through in a month of Saturdays: tryfilling your belly with local eats, downing some of the world’sfinest beer, then hearing music – a symphony, rock, pop or jazz – before dancing till dawn.
If culture is your thing, Prague will more than please. You’ll want to check out the National Museum, 10 buildingsfilled with history, art and natural sciences offering over 14-million items for your perusal; then take in the sights in the Old Town (Stare Mesto) before walking over the Charles Bridge to Lesser Quarter (Mala Strana). In fact, there’s so much you’ll want to see that we’ve provided you with a handy map and marked out the top sites not to be missed!
1 PETRIN HILL OBSERVATION TOWER
Located on Petrin Hill, one of the most idyllic spots in the city, this is a 63m-high replica of the Eiffel Tower, built for the exhibition of 1891 and offering a panoramic view of Prague. Explore the surrounding gardens and the hall of mirrors, also built in 1891. To get to the tower, a funicular railway runs every 15 minutes from Ujezd Street, just across the river from the National Theatre.
2 PRAGUE CASTLE
Prazsky hrad; www.hrad.cz
Dating back to the 9th century, this is the largest ancient castle in the world – a sprawling complex of palaces, cathedrals and churches that’s home to the Czech President. Don’t miss the Changing of the Guard, every hour on the hour.
3 ST VITUS CATHEDRAL
This imposing, 14th-century cathedral rises up from the centre of the castle grounds, dominating the Prague skyline with its dramatic gothic spires and flying buttresses. Be sure to climb to the top of the bell tower for fabulous views of the castle and Old Town.
4 TOY MUSEUM
6 Jirská; tel: +420 224 372 294; www.barbiemuseum.cz
The second-largest museum of its kind in the world features toys from all over the world. Don’t miss the Barbie doll collection – there’s even a pregnant version!
5 GOLDEN LANE
Zlata Ulicka; www.hrad.cz
Featuring tiny, colourful houses built into the arches of the castle walls, this is one of the most picturesque streets in Prague. Number 22 was once home to writer Franz Kafka. Today, most of the houses have been converted to shops selling souvenirs.
6 JOHN LENNON WALL
Velkoprevorské námestí, Malá Strana
On a wall beside Prague’s French Embassy, a picture of John Lennon appeared after he was killed in 1980. Notes, messages, Beatles’ song lyrics and anti-Communist verse followed and, despite attempts by the police to remove the graffiti, it kept coming back. The Lennon Wall became a memorial to the peace-loving Beatle, and a monument to free speech and non-violent rebellion against the regime of the time. Today, it’s covered in messages of love and peace.
7 CHARLES BRIDGE
This stunning gothic-style bridge connects the Old Town with the Lesser Town across the Vltava River. Adorned with more than 30 statues (touch the falling priest on the plague below the statue of Jan Nepomucky and you will return to Prague, according to legend!), during the day it’s packed with tourists, artists and merchants, so be sure to visit early in the morning for a completely different experience – and the most exquisite views of Prague’s fairy tale-like skyline ascending on either side.
8 NATIONAL THEATRE
Národní trída; www.nationaltheatre.cz
Perched on the bank of the Vltava River, the golden roof of this neo-Renaissance building is one of the most popular landmarks in Prague. Go here for ballet or opera in suitably opulent surrounds.
9 OLD JEWISH CEMETERY
Fibichova ulice; www.jewishmuseum.cz
Josefov, the Jewish Quarter of the Old Town, with its old walled ghetto, cobbled streets, courtyards and squares, also has an atmospheric cemetery containing 12,000 tombstones (though many more than this are buried here).
10 OLD-NEW SYNAGOGUE
2 Cervená; www.synagogue.cz
This is the oldest synagogue in Europe that’s still in use as a house of prayer, and was attended by Franz Kafka when he lived in Prague.
11 LETNA PARK
Letenské sady
This huge urban park is famous for its red reverse pendulum known as the Metronome – which sits on a spot that was once occupied by a statue of Stalin. Come for the views of the Old Town and to take a breather from the hustle and bustle of the city.
12 ST NICHOLAS CHURCH
16 Malostranské námestí; www.psalterium.cz
The organ at this magnificent baroque cathedral, with its famous green dome, has been played since 1746. Today, there are frequent recitals of Mozart and other concerts throughout the year.
13 OLD TOWN SQUARE
You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time in this square, considered the heart of Prague. It bustles with shops, cafés and galleries, and is bordered by gothic, Romanesque and baroque buildings.
14 JAN HUS MONUMENT
Old Town Square
This art nouveau-style statue pays tribute to reformer Jan Hus, who was burned alive in the 15th century after being denounced as a heretic. A symbol of Czech nationalism, the monument keeps watch over Prague.
15 TYN CHURCH
Old Town Square
The fairy-tale gothic twin towers of Tyn (pronounced “teen”) Church, or the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn, can be seen from all over Prague and dominates the Old Town Square. A photo-op must.
16 ASTRONOMICAL CLOCK
Old Town Square
Mounted to the Old Town Hall, this is one of the oldest and most elaborate clocks ever built. Every hour on the hour, from 9am to 9pm, two doors slide open and statues of the 12 Apostles glide by while, below them, a kind of medieval morality play is enacted by, among others, Greed, Vanity and Death. Huge crowds gather to watch – but don’t expect the clock to tell you the time: instead, it marks things like the phases of the moon, equinoxes and seasons!
17 ESTATES THEATRE
Ovocný trh, www.narodni-divadlo.cz
Come here to see drama, opera or ballet in a venue seething with history: it was home to the première of Mozart’s opera Don Giovanni in 1787, and the song Kde domov muj? (Where is my home?) in 1834 – which later became the Czech national anthem.
18 BLACK MADONNA HOUSE
19 Ovocný trh; www.ngprague.cz
Completed in 1911, this building is the earliest example of cubist architecture in Prague and houses the Black Madonna, a treasured stone sculpture. Originally intended to be a department store, the building now houses the Museum of Czech Cubism.
19 MUNICIPAL HOUSE
5 námesti Republicky, www.obecnidum.cz
The eye- catching façade, intricate stonework, stained glass windows, gold trim and fabulous frescoes of this building make it one of the most remarkable constructions of Prague art nouveau. Today it functions as a concert hall and exhibition centre.
20 WENCESLAS SQUARE
Less of a square and more of a sloping boulevard – and the site of a once-upon-a-time horse market – this is now Prague’s main thoroughfare. Dominated by the National Museum and Wenceslas Monument at the top, this is the centre of Prague’s entertainment district, with an array of bars, restaurants and clubs ensuring it’s busy day and night.
