BY GEORGINA BROMWICH
When it comes to music al fresco, you can apply the same principal as you would to eating outdoors: the added ingredient of fresh air makes everything a little bit better. A hint of sea salt, a shooting star overhead, an historical monument turned into a concert venue – every detail sharpens your senses.
In Menorca, islanders have good reason to be proud of the quality of their summer soirées, and not just because of what’s on the programme. Where matters too.
Take the quaint fishing village of Fornells, 27km from Mahón on the north coast. The unlikely looking stone arches that make up what’s left of Sant Antoni’s Castle convert to a seaside stage for Thursday night classical concerts in August. Then there’s the picturesque town of Ciutadella, 45km west of Mahón, which invites chamber orchestras, choirs and quartets to perform among the seminary’s cloisters as part of its Summer Music Festival, which runs until 22 August (www.jjmmciutadella.com). While the cheaper seats in the centre of the quad might not have the best views, the scent of flowers filling the gardens mean you don’t mind so much.
Far east in Sant Lluís, 6km south of Mahón, on 8 August, the town converts its football pitch into a huge venue for its own grand lyrical opera concert.
For neck-aching wow factor, the huge abandoned quarries at Líthica (www.lithica.es) fit the bill. Many a visitor makes the typical mistake of opting for dainty dancing shoes, but rather than a night on the town drinking spirits on the rocks, it’s more appropriate to describe Líthica as somewhere you get spirited away for a night on the rocks, miles away from anything that resembles a town. It’s one jaw-dropping walk down, down and down, past sheer stone walls scarred from machinery, to the base. Being a quarry, the acoustics are fantastic, and as the sun fades there’s an impressive light show to match the music. The full moon party on 6 August – complete with Latin fusion, flamenco, rock and percussion performances – is one of the annual highlights.
The right shoes are also required for Menorca’s premier nightclub, the Cova d’en Xoroi, in Cala en Porter (www.covadenxoroi.com). Admittedly it’s not home to much live music, but their chill-out sessions at sundown are pretty good listening material. Some serious steps separate the car park from the dance floor, however, past numerous terraces and caves with vertiginous views of the sea below, and a drink too many can make the climb hard work.
The clash of cymbals and the boom of drums fill island villages when it’s time to celebrate their fiestas too. Be sure to grab a frontline piece of pavement in good time for optimum viewing of floats, bands or folk dancers (www.femefolk.org).
Local fiestas are a late affair and long after the horses have gone to bed, squares shudder to the sound of rock bands until it’s time for breakfast. There’s little respite early in the morning, with uniformed musicians marching through the town at 8am with a reveille. It’s not unheard of for them to enter the houses of particularly sleepy partygoers to grant them a blast or two on the trumpet! Go to www.ultimateguide-menorca.com for more details on the island’s many fiestas.
Rain, rain, go away…
Rain can fall on Menorcan soil in August and September, which means an outdoor concert might get cancelled. Fortunately, there are indoor music venues so impressive you can forgive the black clouds up ahead. In Mahón’s imposing Santa María Church, resident organist Tomé Olives hammers out spine-chilling pieces every Monday to Saturday at 11.30am. Similarly, the dramatic interior of Ciutadella’s 17th-century Socors Church hosts organ recitals from Tuesdays to Thursdays at the same time. And right in the middle of the island, organ concerts are held Wednesday nights in Es Mercadal’s church during August.
Mahón’s Principal Theatre (www.teatremao.com), the oldest opera theatre in Spain, is the key venue for Mahón’s Music Festival from 3–26 August. You might hear anything from orchestral masterpieces to toe-tapping gospel tunes (www.festivaldemusicademao.com).
How to get the best seats in the house…
Few outdoor events have numbered seats so it’s worth getting there early. Or send an advance party armed with fans/scarves and anything that can be used to reserve a chair.
