Photography: Getty
Coastal Cap Ferrat
David Niven, Charlie Chaplin and Somerset Maugham lived here; the Aga Khan and the Marx Brothers holidayed here; King Leopold II of Belgium used to own it. Cap Ferrat may be the world’s most expensive promontory, but a public walkway skirts its coast. Pack provisions – the rocks at the tip are worth a little lingering – and allow a good four hours to complete the circuit, stopping at one of the six tiny beaches. Or hop on bus no 81, which runs from Nice’s gare routiere to the main town of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat; it takes about 30 minutes and costs €1.
Picnic in the park
Every morning from Tuesday to Sunday, Nice Old Town’s Cours Saleya fills with market stalls. Farmers, cheese-makers and bakers pile their produce high, interspersed by deli counters, olive specialists and olive oil producers. Load up with bargains galore or go around noon for end-of-day discounts. Steel yourself – this is the tricky part – and scale the stairs up to the Colline du Château, a public park perched gloriously between the Old Town and the port. With views from Cap Ferrat to Cap d’Antibes, and plenty of sea breezes, sarnies al fresco have never tasted so good.
A paradise of one’s own
It doesn’t matter if the only sea view your hotel room has can be seen by standing on the bed, craning your neck out the window and twisting to the left. In seldom-visited Cap d’Ail, secret beaches, turquoise coves and private beach bars are all yours for the taking. Head 10 minutes from the village and you’ll hit Mala Plage, an arc-shaped beach flanked by fig trees and sheer cliffs. The beach’s pedestrian-only access keeps it low-key even in August. Get there with bus no 100 from Nice’s gare routiere; the journey takes about 35 minutes and costs €1.
Rollerblading on the prom
Nice’s main drag, the Promenade des Anglais, stretches from the airport to quai Rauba Capéu. With over 6km of smooth, wide pavement, it practically cries out for a little aerobic activity. Take your pick: stroll, jog, cycle or – pick of the bunch – rent a pair of rollerblades. Those with fancy footwork can join the locals jumping tricks; the rest of us can simply glide along the sea’s edge. Pop into Roller Station (www.roller-station.com) and pick up a pair; prices start at €4 for an hour, €7 for the entire day.
R&R on the beach
Sunbathing mattresses at Nice’s private beach clubs can cost anywhere up to an ouch-inducing €25. For less than half that, you can overcome the pebbles at new-kid-on-the-plage HI beach (www.hi-beach.net). Half-day rates for a sunbed and parasol in the buzzy HI energy area start at €10, with a beach bar serving organic cocktails and sushi. Bring your laptop: HI beach has Wifi access.
Carte Isabelle
Want to do it all in a day? Ok, so at €12 it’s a touch over budget, but with the Riviera rail line’s Carte Isabelle pass (available until 30 September) you can hop on and off any coastal train. This local line runs every half-hour and stops everywhere from Cannes to the Italian border. Take in Ventimiglia’s market before a lie on Menton’s sandy beach, then stop in Monaco for lunch. Swim in Eze-sur-Mer (keep your eyes peeled for Bono, who lives nearby), then head to Villefranche for a cocktail or Antibes for dinner. The last train will run you back to Nice at 12.30am. (www.ter-sncf.com)
Musée Masséna
A stunning Italianate villa looking out on to the Med, Nice’s Musée Masséna chronicles three centuries of French Riviera history. Lengthy renovations (completed in 2008) mean the collection has been subject to more than a little sprucing. Always hankered after a ride on the Train Bleu? Missed the roaring 20s the first time around? Exhibits include early 20th-century travel posters, sailing club dinner menus and photos of the Côte d’Azur’s crème de la crème. Even better, entrance is free. (65 Rue de France; tel: +33 (0)4 9391 1910, closed Tuesdays)
