We asked the creative and cultured – artists, writers, musicians, book lovers and thespians – for their insider tips into the more unusual side of their cities. So throw away your tourist guide and head off the beaten track – you never know what you might find!
BY DOUG MCNAUGHT
Aberdeen, SCOTLAND
THE INSIDER… Craig Willox, owner of Books and Beans, an independent bookshop complete with second-hand books, coffees and an internet café. www.booksandbeans.co.uk
HIS TIPS…
1 FOOTDEE (pronounced “Fittee” in Aberdeen), an original fishing village in Aberdeen. To find it, hit the beach, turn right and walk until you see the old granite cottages on the right.
2 PRINCE OF WALES PUB, just off Union Street. Friendly staff, real ales and simple food nicely done. 7 St Nicholas Lane.
3 JOHNSTON GARDENS. On Viewfield Road, this park is one of the most charming spots in Aberdeen. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is just under 3km north-west of Aberdeen city centre. Buses to central Aberdeen depart once an hour six days a week; and once an hour from 11am on Sundays. Journey approx 35 mins; fare £1.30.
Taxi fare: approx £15. www.aberdeenairport.com
Almeria, SPAIN
THE INSIDER… Marta Mariño Cisa, comic-book translator.
HER TIPS…
1 EL BARRIO, the historic old quarter of Alicante. It’s a very lively area at night, when people come to enjoy the numerous pubs and taverns.
2 LE SIDRERIA ESCONDIDA is the place to try cider Spanish style! Order your bottle, watch the waiter pour it from a great height then, after drinking as much of it down in one mouthful as you can, throw the remainder in the trough and start all over again! 8 Plaza San Cristóbal; tel: +34 9 6520 3193.
3 THE MERCADO CENTRAL (below) houses a daily market that takes place on two floors, one selling meat and the other fish. At the back is a flower market. Avenida Alfonso X El Sabio S/N; tel: +34 9 6514 0841. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 9km south-east of Alicante city centre. Buses to central Alicante depart every 40 mins. Journey about 40 mins; fare €1. There are also regular buses to Murcia and Benidorm.
Taxi fare approx €13 to Alicante; €58 to Benidorm. www.aena.es
Amsterdam, NETHERLANDS
THE INSIDER… Julia Douglas, artist and children’s social worker.
HER TIPS…
1 BURGERMEESTER is a great diner where they make various burgers (below) such as turkey, salmon and goat’s cheese burgers with the very finest ingredients, as well as wonderful milkshakes. You can find one at 48 Albert Cuypstraat, nearby to the Albert Cuyp market and many pubs, and another in the middle of the Jordaan neighbourhood at 130 Elandsgracht. www.burgermeester.eu
2 THE PATHE TUSCHINSKI is a fantastic cinema/music venue that’s decorated in completely over-the-top art nouveau style. You can take a guided tour if you’re with at least 15 people. 26-34 Reguliersbreestraat, www.pathe.nl/tuschinski
3 ANY TRIP TO AMSTERDAM requires a visit to De Bakkerswinkel for their high tea (you can also eat breakfast and lunch). It has a homely atmosphere with a lovely garden, and their scones are the best. Make sure you call beforehand as it’s always busy. www.debakkerswinkel.nl, tel: +31 2 0489 8000. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 14km from Amsterdam city centre. A shuttle service runs between the airport and city approx every 10 mins, from 6am to 9pm.
Journey approx 20 mins; fare €11 one-way, €17.50 return. Trains run from the airport to the city 24 hours a day. Journey approx 20 mins; fare €3.80.
Taxi fare: approx €45. www.schiphol.nl
Almeria, SPAIN
THE INSIDER… Melanie Bourne, illustrator and portrait artist. www..almeriaart.com
HER TIPS…
1 CAVES AT VÉLEZ-BLANCO. On a rocky summit overlooking the plains and slopes of the Sierra María-Los Vélez lie the UNESCO-protected Vélez caves, where a painted figure of a man holds a rainbow in his outstretched arms. He’s the famous 4,500-year-old Indalo Man, believed to be a messenger of the gods. www.andalucia.com/adventure/cuevadelosletreros.html
2 MOJÁCAR. At the highest point of this village, on the site of a ruined castle, stands El Mirador del Castillo. Built as a family home by an international concert pianist, it’s now a small hotel offering concerts throughout the year. www.elcastillomojacar.com
3 CABO DE GATA NATIONAL PARK Encompassing idyllic beaches, salt water lagoons, caves, mountains and hidden rural villages, a visit here is a must – especially if you’re keen to experiencing the best diving and snorkelling in all of Spain. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport (Aeropuerto de Almeria) is 11.1 kilometres east of the city centre, at the far end of the AL-12 dual carriageway. Airport buses depart every 45 minutes weekdays, every half hour weekends. Journey about 30 mins. Fare €1.15.
Taxi fare approx €15. www.spanish-airport-guide.com
Barcelona, SPAIN
THE INSIDER… Francesca Piatelli, architect.
HER TIPS…
1 EL BOSC DE FADES, as part of the Wax Museum, is a bar with a difference. Full of trees and waterfalls, caves and lights, this place was designed to transport you to a magical world where you can drink a beer while sitting on a toadstool and gossip about your fellow fairies. www.museocerabcn.com
2 BAR MARSELLA. Behind the Colombo statue, this bar still serves absinthe and keeps its old-time charm. Open since 1820, it’s one of the oldest bars in Barcelona and was a frequent watering hole for many of its famous residents, including Dali, Picasso, Gaudi and Hemingway. 65 Ronda Sant Pau; tel: +34 9 3442 7263.
3 LA PALLARESA. Located just off La Rambla, this granja (milk bar) is considered by many to be the best place in the city for churros (Spanish doughnuts; above). They come with a thick cup of warm chocolate for dipping and are a real taste treat for kids and adults alike. 11 Carrer Petritxol; tel: +34 9 3302 2036. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 19km south-east of Barcelona city centre. All bmibaby flights depart from Terminal A. Buses to central Barcelona leave every seven to 15 mins from 6am to 1am. Journey approx 40 mins; fare €4.05. Trains to the city centre run every 30 mins, from 6am to 11.30pm.
Journey approx 30 mins; fare €2.50. Taxi fare approx €20. www.aena.es
Belfast, NORTHERN IRELAND
THE INSIDER… Lisa Catherwood, a painter whose artwork can be seen around Belfast. www.lisacatherwood.com
HER TIPS…
1 CLYDESDALE AND MORROW is a really good boutique cheese shop selling fantastic produce, a lot of it local, with lovely staff. Lisburn Road itself is a great destination with lots of galleries, coffee shops, delis and bars. 581 Lisburn Road; tel: +44 (0)28 9066 2790.
2 THE GIANT’S RING (below) is located in the townland of Ballynahatty, about 15 minutes from the centre of Belfast. This rural place is a lovely spot for a stroll. Legend has it that if you walk clockwise around this henge your luck will continue the same for another year, but if you walk anti-clockwise your luck will reverse.
3 CONORS RESTAURANT is built into the studio of the Belfast artist William Conor just opposite the Ulster Museum and is a great eating haunt. The food is lovely, the staff are charming and the original paintings on the walls give you an interesting view while you eat. 11a Stranmillis Road; tel: +44 (0)28 9066 3266. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 29km northwest of Belfast city centre. The Airport Express 300 service to central Belfast departs every 10 mins, Monday to Friday; every 20 mins on Saturdays and every half hour on Sundays.
Journey approx 40 mins; fare £6. Taxi fare approx £25. www.belfastairport.com
Bordeaux, FRANCE
THE INSIDER… Garin Etcheberry, travel writer.
HIS TIPS…
1 BASE SOUS-MARINE (below) was constructed by the Germans during WWII in order to protect 15 submarines. The massive concrete structure survived a number of bombings by the British and is said to be almost indestructible. It now hosts regular art exhibitions and other events. Boulevard Alfred Daney; tel: +33 (0)5 5611 1150.
2 PIZZERIA PEPPONE. After taking one of the many popular wine tours of the Gironde region, put your newfound wine expertise to the test in Pizzeria Peppone’s outstanding wine cellar. There’s no wine menu here – instead, guests are invited to browse through hundreds of local wines in a series of enchanting stone rooms beneath the restaurant. The food is great as well. 31 Cours Georges Clemenceau; tel: +33 5 5644 9105.
3 LE MARCHÉ DES CAPUCINS is where locals come to let loose. On weekend mornings the farmers’ market comes alive with excitement and personality. It’s not only a great place to buy local meats and produce, it’s also a perfect place to people-watch, eat fresh local food, listen to music, and meet friendly locals. Place des Capucins.
FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 11km west of the city centre. Buses depart for central Bordeaux every 45 mins from 7.45am to 10.45pm. Journey approx 40 mins; fare €7.
Taxi fare approx €30. www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr
Birmingham, ENGLAND
THE INSIDER… Emily Quinton, artist and professional photographer. www.emilyquinton.com
HER TIPS…
1 THE KITCHEN GARDEN CAFÉ is a café and organic garden shop offering a bit of green and quiet in the middle of King Heath’s busy shopping centre. Perfect for families (with a fun indoor play area) and for working on the move (free Wi-Fi), it offers great food, music and comedy nights. www.kitchengardencafe.co.uk
2 THE IKON GALLERY (above) hosts fine art and photography exhibitions and events, as well as conducting family workshops on Saturdays. The building is stunning and the café/restaurant serves good food. There’s a new exhibition every six weeks. www.ikon-gallery.co.uk
3 THE BARBER INSTITUTE OF FINE ARTS, at the University of Birmingham, is a small but beautiful gallery housed in a splendid art deco building. It contains one of the best small art collections in Europe, with pieces by Monet, Renoir, Rubens and Rossetti, among many others. There are also concert series, regular lectures, workshops for all ages and family days. www.barber.org.uk FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 13km south-east of Birmingham city centre. Airport Link buses to central Birmingham leave every 20 to 30 mins. Journey approx 15 mins; fare £1.50. Take the free Air-Rail monorail (90 seconds away) for trains to the city centre.
Taxi fare approx £17. www.bhx.co.uk
Cardiff, WALES
THE INSIDER… Nanor Tashdijian, painter and glass worker who exhibits internationally and sells her work online. www.nanorart.com
HER TIPS…
1 A WALK AROUND CARDIFF CASTLE and its surrounding buildings and parks is the perfect way to relax and explore the history of this city. Although much of the castle was heavily renovated in the 19th century, it has its roots as a Roman fort built around 2,000 years ago and boasts an impressive Norman keep. www.cardiffcastle.com
2 LAGUNA HEALTH AND SPA offers luxurious massages, facials, relaxing spas and various beauty treatments. Their signature hot stone massage involves drizzling warm oil over the body followed by a long massage using warm basalt stones. You can even stay overnight at their hotel for the ultimate relaxation experience. www.lagunahealthandspa.com
3 SPILLERS RECORD SHOP is arguably the oldest record shop in the world. Originally founded in 1894 as a shop selling phonographs, wax phonograph cylinders and shellac phonograph discs, today it struggles to hold its place against bigger outlets but still retains its charm and cult status as a staple of Cardiff. There’s a large selection of independent labels and the staff are friendly and knowledgeable. www..spillersrecords.co.uk FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 19km west of Cardiff city centre. Airbus Xpress buses to central Cardiff run regularly Mon-Sat, hourly on Sun. Journey approx 40 mins; fare £3.40.
Taxi fare approx £24. www.cwlfly.com
Cork, REPUBLIC OF IRELAND
THE INSIDER… Angela Newman, assistant manager, Cork Arts Theatre, Ireland’s only playwright’s theatre, hosting Irish plays, musicals and an art gallery. www.corkartstheatre.com
HER TIPS…
1 RING THE SHANDON BELLS. St Anne’s Church, Shandon (left), is one of the most historic buildings in Cork. Not only can you climb the famous clock tower for spectacular views of the city and surrounds, but you can actually play the bells. Choose from one of the many songs available and follow the instructions. Tel: +353 (0)21 450 5906
2 SEEING THE CITY FROM THE RIVER. Nowhere else do you get the chance to row a currach (traditional racing and fishing boats) and you’ll find the captains of your boats full of knowledge about Cork and its maritime history. You can become a member of the Naomhóga Chorcaí rowing club for a day and have a go yourself, or just sit back and enjoy the ride. www.naomhogachorcai.com
3 DANCE A CÉILE. On Wednesday nights, from 7.30-9.30pm during the summer months, dance at a traditional Irish céile and learn all the steps from the locals in a relaxed and fun atmosphere. Head to the concrete area next to the Hawthorn Bar by the Lough in the city centre. Tel: +353 (0)21 496 2768. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 8km south-west of Cork city centre. Buses to central Cork leave regularly. Journey approx 30 mins; fare €4.10. RoadRunners, an airport-to-city shuttle, departs every 30 mins; fare €5.
Taxi fare approx €18. www.corkairport.com
Faro, PORTUGAL
THE INSIDER… Gabrielle Collison, author of Buying Property in Portugal. www.nativeportugal.com
HER TIPS…
1 CABO SÃO VICENTE, 80km from Faro, is the most south-westerly point of Europe, situated on a steep cliff near the village of Sagres. One of the most powerful lighthouses in Europe (below) stands here and you can enter it at certain times of the day. Wild and windy, this dramatic coastline is where many of the great Portuguese discoverers set sail from, giving you a sense of what they must have felt before venturing out into the unknown. www.portugalvirtual.pt/_tourism/algarve
2 MARISQUEIRA RUI, situated in the old Moorish town of Silves, 48km from Faro, is known for being one of the best fish and seafood restaurants in the Algarve. A trip to the castle and the archaeological museum in the town, followed by lunch or dinner at Rui’s, would be a day well spent. Closed Tuesdays. 27 Rua do Comendador; tel: +351 2 8244 2682.
3 ALVOR WALK. Starting at Alvor beach, head west in the direction of Lagos, then turn right towards the dunes at the end of the beach by the rocks, where a totally different landscape awaits you. Returning you’ll get a view of the beautiful green hills of Monchique in the distance. There are many small boats and, if the tide is low, you’ll see people looking for mussels. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 8km from Faro city centre. Buses to the city centre depart regularly.
Journey approx 20 mins; fare €1.65.
Taxi fare approx €10. www.ana.pt
Edinburgh, SCOTLAND
THE INSIDER… Andrew Tully, shop manager, Avalanche Records. www.avalancherecords.co.uk
HIS TIPS…
1 BLACK BO’S PUB & RESTAURANT. Tucked away off the Royal Mile, this boho staple of Edinburgh has an array of rickety chairs and tables complemented by art school murals on the wall and regular DJ sets by Edinburgh’s own Dolphin Boy. A subterranean passage takes you to the best vegetarian restaurant in town. 57-61 Blackfriars Street; tel: +44 (0)131 557 6136.
2 THE MUSEUM OF CHILDHOOD. Trapped between the kilt shops on the High Street, the Museum of Childhood is a delight for children and a kitsch heaven for grown-ups. Marvel at your old Dinky cars and Hornby train sets, bright orange Wembley footballs and incomplete Rubik’s Cubes. 42 High Street, Royal Mile; tel: +44 (0)131 529 4142.
3 ANALOGUE BOOKS (above). Very cool, but in a down home, folksy way, Analogue Books is more than just a bookshop, with art exhibitions, an eclectic range of art and design books, their own ‘zines and T-shirts. www.analoguebooks.co.uk FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 13km west of the city centre. Express buses to central Edinburgh depart every 10 mins from the early morning until after midnight.
Journey approx 25 mins; fare £3.
Taxi fare approx £15. www.edinburghairport.com
Geneva, SWITZERLAND
THE INSIDER… Magnus Young, student and musician.
HIS TIPS…
1 L’USINE. This semi-derelict factory is home to much of the alternative youth culture in otherwise upmarket Geneva. It houses a hippy bar, a club that has the best DJs who drop by Geneva, and a concert venue that hosts pretty much any interesting act that visits the city, plus films and other cultural events. www.usine.ch
2 AMR. Located in the Paquis area near the train station, a neighbourhood that’s usually written off, AMR has a really good atmosphere and amazing jazz. 10 Rue des Alpes; www.amr-geneve.ch
3 CAFÉ DEMILUNE, on Rue Etienne Dumont in the old town, does amazing tapas and other snacks, and is the perfect place for having a glass of wine with your friends. It’s not quite as off the beaten track as the others, but is very cosy! www.demilune.ch FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 4km north of the city. The No 10 bus departs every 10 minutes and the No 28 every 20, direct to the centre of Geneva. Journey time 15 mins.
Trains to the city centre depart every 5-10 mins. Journey approx 10 mins. You can pick up a ticket from the machine in the baggage collection area which allows you free travel on public transportation for the next 80 minutes.
Taxi fare approx CHF30-35. www.gva.ch
Glasgow, SCOTLAND
THE INSIDER… Christopher Hawker, freelance photographer/digital retoucher. www.christopherhawker.com
HIS TIPS…
1 THE POT STILL sells over 400 brands of single malt whiskey from Japan, Canada, the United States, India and, of course, Scotland. And what’s a trip to Scotland without a taste of the Water of Life, as it’s know in Gaelic? Step in for a wee dram and try to drink yourself around the world. 154 Hope Street; tel: +44 (0)141 333 0980.
2 AIR ORGANIC is so named as it used to be known for its oxygen machine, they serve delicious, locally sourced, organic food for very reasonable prices. 36 Kelvingrove Street; tel: +44 (0)141 564 5200.
3 THE EASY ORCHESTRA (below) play easy-listening classics and cover songs in an easy-listening fashion. Smooth, funny and talented, these jazz musicians don’t take themselves too seriously. The atmosphere is lively so prepare to sing along and dance around!
They play in the Butterfly and Pig on Bath Street every Friday night. www..theeasyorchestra.com FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 13km west of Glasgow city centre.
Buses to central Glasgow depart regularly from early morning until after midnight.
Journey approx 25 mins; fare £4.20.
Taxi fare approx £20. www.glasgowairport.com
Knock, REPUBLIC OF IRELAND
THE INSIDER… Karen Forde, murialist, designer and illustrator. www.k4d.ie
HER TIPS…
1 MUSIC BAR AND LOUNGE OF THE BELMONT HOTEL. Local musician and renowned tin-whistle player Vinny Kilduff, who toured America with U2, now rubs shoulders with the best of Irish musical talent in a vibrant trompe l’oeil mural adorning the interior walls at the lounge’s entrance. The celebrated artists and musicians illustrated by Karen Forde include Bono (above) from U2, Van Morrison, Sinead O’Connor, Enya and many more. This popular haunt is a good place to enjoy a quiet drink. www.belmonthotel.ie
2 KNOCK POTTERY STORE. Nestled in the heart of Knock Village, this store has gained a reputation for providing individually hand-crafted pieces of distinction. www.knockpottery.com
3 THE VILLAGE OF BALLINTUBBER, 30 minutes from Knock, is home to the impressive Ballintubber Abbey. It’s the only church in Ireland founded by an Irish king and still in use. Founded in 1216, by King Cathal O’Conor, the abbey has an imposing 15th-century doorway and windows dating back to the 13th century. www.ballintubberabbey.ie FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 6km from Charlestown in County Mayo. Buses to Charlestown depart eight times a day; fare €5.50.
Taxi fare approx €25 to Knock. www.knockairport.com
Jersey, CHANNEL ISLANDS
THE INSIDER… Nicholas Romeril, Jersey artist. www.nicholasromeril.com
HIS TIPS…
1 LES MINQUIERS. Lying 19km south of St Helier, this tiny archipelago was once a fisherman’s refuge, a quarry and a permanent posting during WWII, and is now a tourist destination for the hearty seaman. It boasts a beautiful horseshoe sand bank and the most southerly building in the British Isle that just happens to be a toilet!
2 ARTIST’S OPEN STUDIOS. Every year Jersey artists open their studios to the public. It’s a great way of getting to meet the creators in their spaces and there’s a surprisingly large number of internationally renowned and local artists living and creating in this small population. www.jerseyartstrust.com
3 CLIFF PATH WALKS ON THE NORTH COAST (above). There are miles of rugged cliff paths that link the small picturesque northern bays. Starting at Grosnez and walking east, you’ll pass over Plemont, Greve de Lecq, Bonne Nuit and Rozel to name a few. The walk is punctuated by the occasional pub or café for refreshment. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 6km west of St Helier centre. Bus No 15 to St Helier departs every 20-30 mins, from 7am to 10pm. Journey approx 15 mins; fare £1.50.
Taxi fare: approx £20. www.jerseyairport.com
Lisbon, PORTUGAL
THE INSIDER… Pedro Quintas, painter and multi-media artist. www.pedroquintas.com
HIS TIPS…
1 FÁBRICA BRAÇO DE PRATA – a former factory located between Santa Apolónia Train Station and Expo, now a 13-room bookshop, art gallery, music venue, bar and much more.
There’s always something interesting going on, or you can just enjoy a drink at the bar while surfing on the free Wi-Fi. www.brcodeprata.org
2 TREM AZUL JAZZ STORE, located between Cais do Sodré and Chiado, this is one of the best places in Lisbon for jazz lovers. It’s the only exclusive jazz store in town and in the middle of CD shelves you can always find something precious. There are also jazz concerts every week. www.tremazul.wordpress.com
3 A WALK AROUND TOWN. Lisbon always has a beautiful light, especially in winter, and the first hours of a sunny Sunday morning are perfect for enjoying the light and quiet during a walk in the city of seven hills. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 6km from Lisbon city centre. Aerobus No 91 to central Lisbon departs every 20 mins from 7.45am to 8.15pm; fare €3.35; valid all day.
Taxi fare approx €15. www.ana.pt
Madrid, SPAIN
THE INSIDER… Jo Ayling, singer/songwriter of up-and-coming Madrid-based band, Boat Beam. www.myspace.com/boatbeam
HIS TIPS…
1 THE TEMPLE OF DEBOD. This incongruous ancient Egyptian temple was originally built in southern Egypt in the early 2nd century by a Kushite king. In the 1960s, Spain helped rescue the temples from being inundated by the rising waters of the Nile. As a token of their gratitude, the Egyptian government donated the temple of Debod to Spain. A sunset visit is recommended. Muy romantico! Parque del Oeste; tel: +34 9 1366 7415.
2 EL JARDÍN SECRETO. This café, devoted to different types of hot chocolate and tea, is dark and magically lit with hundreds of fairy lights.
A favourite of many Madrileños, it’s usually quite busy, but you can always marvel at the museum-like surrounds while you wait! The smoked broccoli and the carrot cake are highly recommended. 2 Conde Duque; tel: +34 9 1541 8023.
3 IN A SMOKY CAFÉ CALLED LA MANUELA, a piano is almost collapsing under the weight of a mountain of stacked board games. Choose a game, pick a table and start a tournament! From Trivial Pursuit to Monopoly and way beyond, the range of options will stimulate your inner child and warm the cockles of your competitive streak! 29 Calle de San Vicente Ferrer; tel: +34 9 1531 7037. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 13km from the city centre. Buses depart every 15 mins, 0.45am to 6pm. Journey approx 35 mins; fare €2.40. The airport Metro station is located in Terminal 2. Trains to the city run daily from 6am to 2am. Journey approx 45 mins; fare €1.10.
Taxi fare approx €15 to €20. www.spanish-airport-guide.com/madrid-airport.html
Manchester, ENGLAND
THE INSIDER… Ailsa Plain, bookseller at Waterstones. www.waterstones.com
HER TIPS…
1 THE FAB CAFÉ, a retro bar decked out in sci-fi and cult film décor. Have drinks with a Dalek and party with the Thunderbirds – if it’s geeky enough or retro enough, it’s probably in there somewhere! www.fabcafe.co.uk
2 AFFLECK’S (formerly Affleck’s Palace). This indoor market, located on Church Street in the Northern Quarter, has been around since the early 80s. It’s a great place to browse independent clothing labels, handmade prints, fancy-dress costumes and the latest underground music. www.afflecks.com
3 JOHN RYLANDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY (above). Part of the University of Manchester, this library hosts some of the earliest forms of European printing, including the Gutenberg Bible and first edition Shakespearean sonnets, not to mention the earliest surviving fragment of the New Testament: St John’s Gospel. www.library.manchester.ac.uk FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 16km south-west of Manchester city centre. All bmibaby flights operate from Terminal 3. Every hour, five to six trains go to the city. Journey approx 15-20 mins; fare £3.60. Every day, the No 43 bus departs every 10-30 mins from 5am to 11pm.
Journey approx 50 mins; fare £2.50.
Taxi fare approx £20. www.manchesterairport.co.uk
Malaga, SPAIN
THE INSIDER… Yolanda Solo, author of Spain: The Expat Survival Guide. www.spainsurvivalmanual.com
HER TIPS…
1 EL TINTERO RESTAURANT. Not your traditional restaurant, as they don’t have a menu, but a great place if you like to try new dishes and love fish. The waiters walk round with the latest dishes from the kitchen, shouting out what they have. If you want it, put your hand up and they bring it over! 99 Carretera Almeria, El Paolo; tel: +34 9 5220 6826.
2 EL HAMMAM TURKISH BATHS. Located near the Picasso Museum in the old Jewish quarter, a visit to El Hammam is a sensory experience not to be missed. Apart from the usual detoxifying and invigorating baths and massages, they have specialities like a white chocolate massage. www..elhammam.com
3 LA ANTIGUA CASA DEL GUARDIA offers a truly authentic wine-tasting experience. This traditional bodega bar, open since 1840, is filled with barrels of local wines. It can be difficult to know which to choose, but that’s part of the experience. Take your time, soak in the atmosphere and try a few of the barrels with some delicious tapas. 18 Alameda Principal; tel: +34 9 5221 4680. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 8km south-west of Málaga city centre. Buses to central Málaga depart every 30 mins, 7am to midnight. Journey approx 45 mins; fare €1. Buses to Marbella vary depending on season. Journey approx 45 mins; fare €3.65. Trains to Malaga depart opposite Terminal 2, from 7am to 11.45pm; fare €1.
Taxi fare approx €15 to Malaga; €50 to Marbella. www.aena.es
Marseille, FRANCE
THE INSIDER… Anne de Beaumont, illustrator.
HER TIPS…
1 LE TEMPS D’UN CHOCOLAT. This store is run by Parisian chocolatier Claude Krajner and specialises in gourmet chocolate with various percentages and varieties of cocoa, and ingredients such as nuts and fruits, flavoured sugared almonds, caramel, chocolate spreads and much more. www.letempsdunchocolat.com
2 THE TRAIN RIDE TO THE CHARMING TOWN OF ARLES takes under an hour and makes a great day trip from Marseille. This ancient trading town has been around since the 7th century BC and features many ancient sites including the Roman arena. On Saturday morning, a huge street market pulls in people from all around.
3 TAKE A BOAT TRIP TO THE CALANQUES. Halfway between Marseille and Cassis, the calanques are deep, narrow, fjord-like inlets between towering limestone crevices, which, apart from being a stunning natural feature, are also great for birdwatching, diving and swimming. Just head to the port and see which boat heads that way. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 25km from the city centre. All bmibaby flights operate from the mp2 terminal. Shuttle buses to the city centre run every 20–30 mins from 6.30am to 10.50pm.
Journey approx 30 mins; fare €8.50. Taxi fare approx €40. www.worldairportguide.com
Murcia, SPAIN
THE INSIDER… Debbie Jenkins, author and webmaster of www.nativespain.com, a Spanish lifestyle website for expats.
HER TIPS…
1 THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING interesting to see in this 13th-century grain store. The Palacio del Almudí is now home to an art museum, displaying different artists throughout the year. Aside from the magnificent exhibits, take a moment to admire the Tuscan columns, the Baroque façade and the pelican, a symbol of abundance. 8 Plano de San Francisco; tel: +34 9 6835 8600.
2 LA PUERTA FALSA. Don’t think about going to a bar in Murcia till 11pm. Before then, enjoy a coffee in Plaza Cardenal Belluga (below) and admire the floodlit cathedral. Around midnight the city comes alive with jazz, salsa, blues and flamenco. Head to the university area and try the relaxed La Puerta Falsa, which has live artists and changing exhibitions of paintings on the walls. 5 Calle San Martín de Porres; www.lapuertafalsa.com
3 ZAHER. Squeeze in at the counter of this hugely popular pastelería and enjoy a Murciano Pastel de Carne with a glass of cider or red wine. Fresh calf meat pies are swooped along the counter direct from the huge kitchens and sliced in front of you.
The taste will stay with you forever! 5 Riquelme, just off Plaza de Flores; tel: +34 9 6821 1385. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 48km south-east of Murcia city centre.
Bus No 73 to central Murcia departs at 5.45pm, 7.15pm and 10.45pm.
Journey approx 45 mins; fare €7.
Taxi fare approx €42. www.aena.es
Nottingham, ENGLAND
THE INSIDER… Nicky Brownell, designer.
HIS TIPS…
1 THE PIT AND PENDULUM. This gothic bar is laden with medieval decor, heavy dark-age thrones and gargoyle sculptures. Cheap cocktails, rock music and a revolving bookcase that leads to the loos are just some of the highlights to be found here. 17 Victoria Street; tel: +44 (0)115 950 6383.
2 IBERICO WORLD TAPAS serves excellent Spanish tapas and international cuisine for very reasonable prices, but the main feature of this place is that the restaurant is a converted crypt, just under the Galleries of Justice, where they used to hang people. www.ibericotapas.com
3 LACE MARKET HOTEL. Athough small in comparison to other big name hotels, this stylish, designer hotel (below) combines ultra-modern design with comfort and refined service in the wonderful surroundings of Nottingham’s historic Lace Market area. www.lacemarkethotel.co.uk FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 21km south-west of Nottingham city centre. Skylink buses to the city centre depart every 30 mins. Journey approx 45 mins; fare £5. Airline shuttles to Derby run hourly; fare £2.60.
Taxi fare approx £26 to Nottingham, £24 to Derby and £33 to Leicester. www.eastmidlandsairport.com
Nice, FRANCE
THE INSIDER… Martin Broussard, musician and painter.
HIS TIPS…
1 LE LAFAYETTE is known for its post-industrial décor and the cocktails are delicious. In summer, the outside seating and fish-based menu served at the adjoining restaurant are popular with locals. 64 Rue Gioffrédo, tel: +33 4 9385 4467.
2 FENOCCIO. This family-owned ice-cream parlour first opened in 1966 and serves 94 flavours of ice cream, sorbets and frozen cakes, ranging from such traditional favourites as chocolate, vanilla and Baileys to cactus, lavender and tomato and basil. www.fenocchio.fr
3 HIKE UP TO THE WATERFALL BY COLLINE DU CHÂTEAU (above) for breathtaking views all the way to Cap d’Antibes. Bring a picnic and admire the park, medieval ruins and the old villa (now a museum). You’ll find the steps rising up from the top of the Rue des Ponchettes in the Old Town. Montée du Château, tel: +33 4 9392 8282. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 6km west of Nice city centre. Buses to central Nice take 15 mins; fare approx €4. Buses to Cannes (€12.40) and Monaco (€14) take 50 mins. Trains to the centre of Nice leave from the Gare Nice St Augustin (500m from Terminal 1). Journey approx 15 mins; fare €4.
Taxi fare: approx €25; €70 to Cannes; €75 to Monaco. www.nice.aeroport.fr
Palma de Majorca, SPAIN
THE INSIDER… Pablo Cortes, saxophonist.
1 BLUESVILLE. This blues bar in the city centre is a great place to sit back with a beer and listen to some great live music from visiting musicians from all over the world. www.bluesvillebar.com
2 PASATIEMPOS Satisfy all your designer label needs with a visit to this sophisticated shop which sells customised handbags and ties, brands such as Carhartt, Diesel and Converse, as well as their own home brand. 3 Calle Quint; tel: +34 9 7172 5980.
3 TORRE DE NA BURGUESA. This monument is located well off the beaten track next to the Bellver Castle (castillo de Bellver, above), and, due to its great views, was used as a watchtower to guard the bay from the invading Phoenicians, Romans and pirates. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is located 11km south-east of Palma city centre. Buses to the city centre depart every 15 mins, from 6.10am to 2.15am.
Journey approx 15 mins; fare €1.85.
Taxi fare approx €17. www.aena.es
Paris, FRANCE
THE INSIDER… Joseph Finch, jazz pianist. www.youmbi.fr
HIS TIPS…
1 LA MIROITERIE. Hosting a range of live music from jazz to metal, this squat in the 20th arrondisement holds free jam sessions on Sunday nights that treat audiences to impromptu mixtures of flamenco dancing and bebop. The building itself is rough and ready, with a barn-like arrangement to house the bohemian and appreciative crowd, and the standard of musicianship is of the usual Olympic Parisian level. 88 Rue de Ménilmontant; www.lamiroit.free.fr/index2
2 LE YOUMBI. This bar has an eclectic crowd and great live music on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights from 9 until 12. The music is free and usually features African-tinged jazz. Drinks are reasonably priced and there is an impressive range of cocktails. There are also occasional jam sessions after the concerts that are attended by the best of Paris’ conservatoires. 112-114 Rue Saint-Maur; www.youmbi.fr
3 LE CAFE DE L’ERMITAGE. This evening, hosted on Friday nights in the basement of the Café de l’Ermitage, is one of the hidden bargains of Paris. A €5.50 entrance fee buys a meal and, in addition, a range of live music is included to boot. 294 Rue de Pyrénées. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 23km north-east of Paris city centre. Buses to central Paris depart every 15 mins, from 6am to 10.30pm. Journey approx 45 mins; fare €8.40. Rapid RER trains to central Paris depart every 15 mins, from 5.24am to 11.58pm.
Journey approx 35 mins; fare €8.
Taxi fare €45. www.adp.fr
Prague, CZECH REPUBLIC
THE INSIDERS… The staff of Big Ben Bookshop. www.bigbenbookshop.com
Prague, CZECH REPUBLIC
THEIR TIPS…
1 HOSTINEC U PROVAZNICE. A long time ago, the wife of the local rope-maker asked her husband to open up this pub for her to run so she wouldn’t get bored when he was away on business. She provided an extra special service and was soon “entertaining” the locals while he was away. When her husband returned and found out, he hung her with one of his ropes and tossed her down the well and her ghost has haunted the pub ever since! Serves good Czech food and great beer. 385/3 Provaznická; tel: +420 2 2423 2528.
2 A GOOD WALK THROUGH LETNA PARK (below). After tiring of sightseeing in the maze of streets that make up the Old Town, you can take a different route back into the centre by walking from the rear gardens of the palace along the garden paths of Letna Park and never have to cross a city street. This beautiful park provides some of the best sweeping views over the city.
3 CROSS CLUB. The entrance of this all-night club has a large cast iron, multi-level patio with fountains and sculptures. Once inside, the layout is a labyrinth of rooms and bars, each with its own metalic/junk-yard sculpture designs. On most nights there’s various live music and DJs, all in their own rooms, leaving one to wander around until one finds the right atmosphere. 1096/23 Plynární; www.crossclub.cz FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 19km north of Prague city centre. Catch the No119 bus to Dejvicka metro station or the No. 100 to Zlicín, and continue underground to the city centre.
Journey approx 45-60 mins; fare CZK20.
Taxi fare approx CZK600. www.csl.cz
Perpignan, FRANCE
THE INSIDER… Franck Garcia, producer and electronic/pop/ house DJ whose collaborations with Mlle Caro have met with national success. www.myspace.com/franckgarcia
HIS TIPS…
1 PALAIS DES ROIS DE MAJORQUE. Built in the last quarter of the 13th century by King James II of Majorca, this huge, fortified Gothic palace has been continually changed and renovated over the centuries by such people as Emperor Charles V and the military genius Vauban. 4 Rue des Archers; tel: +33 (0)4 6834 9629.
2 BARABUL/RESTAURANT JEAN. This restaurant-cum-nightclub has two rooms: the first a fantastically designed (check out the rail-less chrome staircase!) restaurant serving up traditional French food, the other a stylish, modern bar and music venue with 60s-influenced decor. A real must! Rue Tonnelière; www.myspace.com/barabul
3 THE ARAGO CAVE. Located outside of Perpignan, the small town of Tautavel was put on the map when, in 1970, the discovery of a 450,000 years old ancestor to the Neanderthal man (now known as the Tautavel Man) was discovered in the Arago cave. The museum there is fascinating and the landscape is breathtaking. www.culture.gouv.fr/fr/arcnat/tautavel/en/index.html FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is 5km north-west of Perpignan city centre. A shuttle bus runs to the city railway station.
Journey approx 15 mins; fare €5.
Taxi fare: approx €15. www.aeroport.fr/les-aeroports-de-l-uaf/perpignan-rivesaltes.php
Toulouse, FRANCE
THE INSIDER… Narelle Lewis, journalist, founder and organiser of English in Toulouse, who also runs the Toulouse Creative Writers’ Group. www.englishintoulouse.com
HER TIPS…
1 TOURNEFEUILLE, a 15 minute drive from Toulouse, is a pretty village to spend the day exploring. Few tourists find their way here, which means you’ll be among regular French families shopping for their lunch at the Sunday morning markets. The locals flock here; armed with woven baskets and filling them with locally grown fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses and wine. You can also buy handmade soaps, shoes, clothes, pottery and plants.
2 THE CULTURAL CINEMA HOUSE: UTOPIA. After a hearty lunch of tartiflette (a rich potato dish) from the markets, you can escape to the inside of this cinema, with its wonderful high ceilings and exposed wooden beams. There’s a cafe in the middle where you can pass the time while waiting to see a film. All the films are shown in their original language and you won’t find any popcorn here; this is the home of serious cinema buffs. www.cinemas-utopia.org/toulouse CAMINITO. This tiny Argentinian restaurant is eclectic but homely and serves good food at dirt-cheap prices. They do empeñandas, baked pastries that are similar to pasties, with a choice of fillings. You can also get a salad with your empeñandas and, of course, Argentinian beer, wine or cola. It’s very popular with the locals so get there early or book a table! 3 Rue des Gestes; tel: +33 (0)5 6123 5174. FROM THE AIRPORT: The airport is located 6.7km northwest of Toulouse. Buses to the city centre leave every 20 mins daily, from 7.35am to 12.45am.
Journey time approx 20 mins. Fare €4 single.Taxi to the centre.
€22 (day), €25 (night). www.toulouse.aeroport.fr/USpl
