RUGBY HEAVEN & HELL

For some, grown men chasing a funny-shaped ball is the epitome of entertainment; for others, it’s as exciting as watching grass grow. yeahbaby tries to keep both sides happy in the lead-up to the Six Nations, which starts on 7 February

BY MATT HILL

RUGBY HEAVEN

You love rugby so, of course, you’ve come to Cardiff

In Wales, rugby isn’t a matter of life or death: it’s much more important. In 2008, when the Welsh won the Grand Slam (beating every team in the competition), the crowds in the nation’s capital sang into the small hours. Record try-scorer Shane Williams compared the tense final match against France to “the last day on Earth” and in the aftermath, Grand Slam T-shirts were selling at a rate of one every minute.

“There’s a famous quote that’s attached to the Six Nations,” says Richie Gledson, of Tours 4 Sport (www.tours4sport.com): “Women say that childbirth is the most painful experience in life, but they obviously haven’t seen their team lose a Six Nations match.” Rather wisely, the person responsible for this suggestion has remained anonymous, but the sentiment cheekily sums up the passion for the 200-year-old sport.

Combine this fanaticism with perhaps the world’s finest rugby stadium and a city buzzing with fun, and you can understand why Cardiff is European City of Sport for 2009, and why tour operators like Richie bring fans to the city every year. “A rugby tour to Cardiff is an excellent way to experience the truest of rugby cultures,” he says. “If ever you wanted to make the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end, whatever your nationality, take a seat in the Millennium Stadium on match day.”

Rugby fans descending on Cardiff can stretch the 80-minute match into a weekend with a host of additional activities to choose from. Many hotels offer packages, such as the Vale (www.vale-hotel.com) or the Marriott (www.marriott.co.uk), which can add Champagne, souvenirs and celebrity speakers to the rugby mix. But if you prefer to just be one of the crowd, the appropriate attire is required. Both the Welsh Rugby Union store at the Millennium Stadium, which also offers tours (www.millenniumstadium.com), and Shop Rugby (www.shoprugby.com), on Dukes Street (opposite Cardiff Castle), offer replica kits, balls and memorabilia (Wales flip-flops and inflatable daffodils are optional).

For energetic disciples of the game, a trip to South Wales can include a match of your own, with many local teams happy to set up a game. “Over a weekend, you can experience a match at the Millennium Stadium or play in a game against a local side who will offer hospitality like only the Welsh can,” says Richie.

But no matter how healthy you are, the Cardiff rugby experience inevitably includes a tipple or two along the way, and an assortment of friendly bars await.

For those making the pilgrimage to the stadium, a stop at the Queens Vaults pub on Westgate Street will add to the anticipation. Heavily clad in rugby memorabilia, the large venue is popular on match days, so expect a scrum at the bar. Too full? Try the Tafarn Tâf bar on the riverside on Despenser Street, just a penalty kick’s distance from the stadium, with real ales and live sport on tap.

If the thought of being so close to the stadium without a ticket is too much to bear, then the Walkabout on St Mary Street is a great place to watch the match with hundreds of fellow fans. This pub boasts the largest screen in the city, and 16 other screens dotted about ensure you won’t miss any of the action.

Following an impressive victory against Australia recently, Wales are determined to retain the Six Nations in 2009, and with stars like Gavin Henson (injuries permitting) and Shane Williams playing, you’d be mad to bet against them. But, even if you do, Cardiff’s rugby lovers will welcome you with open arms.

RUGBY HELL

No matter how hard you try, you just can’t be converted: what to do in Cardiff if rugby doesn’t float your boat Rugby might be an integral part of Cardiff’s culture, with around 65% of the population watching fixtures on TV, but it can easily be avoided in the increasingly eclectic city.

Try a stroll around Cardiff Bay. A bus from the city centre is only £1.70 (return) and you can then take the water taxi (£5 return) across to the barrage – a large barrier that holds back the sea and could (but won’t) be compared to a solid scrum of rugby players pushing back wave after wave of attacks (ahem). The bay offers bars, restaurants and plenty to do. For sophisticated taste buds, enjoy lunch at El Puerto in the Old Custom House on Penarth Marina (tel: +44 [0]29 2070 5551).

Being a spectator is all very well, but for a real adrenalin rush you need to be in the thick of the action. At Taff Valley Quad Bike & Activity Centre (www.adventurewales.co.uk), about 18km from the city centre, you can create some exciting action of your own, quad biking in the countryside, plunging into rivers and scrambling up rocks during a gorge walk, or perfecting your aim with a spot of clay shooting.

When Wales wins at rugby, the hills come alive with the sound of impromptu choirs belting out the national anthem, Hen Wlad Fy Nhadau (Land of My Fathers). It’s all very stirring, but lacks a little style. Thank goodness, then, for reality-star-turned-stage-goddess Connie Fisher, whose more tuneful performance brings The Sound of Music to life at the Millennium Centre this summer. It’s one of many (non-sporting) performances to witness in the Welsh capital.

St David’s Hall (www.stdavidshallcardiff.co.uk) plays host to the Cardiff Philharmonic on the eve of Wales’ match against England in February, while Kings College Choir provide a pre-match concert in March. For a day of music, comedy and man-eating plants, go to the New Theatre (www.newtheatrecardiff.co.uk), where the matinée performance of Little Shop of Horrors nicely coincides with Wales v Ireland or, for a spot of 1920s drama, don’t miss Thoroughly Modern Millie at the Sherman Theatre (www.shermancymru.co.uk) in February.

Just because the rugby contingent enjoys a jar or two, doesn’t mean you have to avoid every food and drink establishment in town. Indeed, Cardiff offers plenty of opportunities for stylish sipping, such as the classy Soda Bar (www.thesodabar.com) on Mill Lane, where rugby star Gavin Henson and celebrity warbler Charlotte Church can often be found partying (don’t worry, the dress code prohibits sportswear of any kind). But the most aptly named venue for casual consumption has to be the Armless Dragon (dragon, Wales, armless – as in can’t play rugby… never mind), which offers a gorgeous menu packed full of local produce. On the Wyeverne Road, a mile north of the city centre, the restaurant is understandably popular, so booking is recommended (tel: +44 [0]29 2038 2357).

Wales swept aside the French in last season’s Six Nations and, while France’s tradition of wining and dining is hard to beat, it seems the Welsh are now aiming for that too. The Cariad (which means love in Welsh) wine produced at Llanerch Vineyard (www.llanerchvineyard.co.uk), just 15 minutes out of Cardiff, is clean, crisp and has even won awards. With wine-tasting sessions, a food school and a restaurant, visitors will love this taste of Wales.

The Welsh also gave Italy a good beating last year, but it was very different 2,000 years ago, when the Romans occupied much of Wales and built a garrison in the capital. Since then, Cardiff Castle (www.cardiffcastle.com) has been further developed by the Normans and Victorians, and the attraction offers more stories of battles, courage and bravery than a post-match rugby report.

With shopping in the Capitol Shopping Centre and the Edwardian arcades (they’ll be much quieter on match days), and a selection of guided tours (try www.griffinguiding.co.uk or www.cardiffbaytours.com), Cardiff offers something for every rugby-fearing visitor.

A quick hint though: you might want to keep your aversion to the sport to yourself, just to keep everyone in the friendly city smiling.

The romance of rugger

There is nothing as romantic as Paris on Valentine’s Day. As dusk transforms the capital into the City of Lights, doting couples share candle-lit dinners in the restaurants of the Latin Quarter, while thousands of kilt-wearing rugby fanatics join together to drink beer, recall former glories and heartily sing The Flower of Scotland as they make their way to the Stade de France. No tickets? Don’t worry – visitors to Paris are guaranteed a great time thanks to the city’s many sport-friendly bars. “All of the leading pubs have live DJs and show all major sporting events on large screens,” says Emma Schofield of New Paris Tours. “The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, no matter what nationality you are.”

For a home-from-home approach, try the many ex-pat bars such as Café Oz in the Chatelet area (www.australian-bar.com) or Corcoran’s Irish Bar in the Grande Boulevard area, where “huge sporting afternoons” are often the order of the day (www.corcorans.fr).

Trying in Scotiand

Cardiff’s passion for rugby is hard to beat, but as any Scotsman will tell you, they enjoy their tackles and tries in Edinburgh too. Following the three Six Nations clashes, the crowds at Murrayfield Stadium (in the west of the city) will witness rugby in all its guises. First the Rugby League Magic Weekend will see a full round of Super League fixtures played over two days (2 and 3 May), Europe’s finest rugby union players will then take centre stage for the Heineken Cup Final (23 May) and finally the IRB Emirates 7s (that’s the fast and furious version of the game, with seven players on each team) will entertain the masses (30 and 31 May).

Not enough variety? Wait until 2011 when the Touch World Cup comes to the Scottish capital and puts an elegant, tackle-free twist on the game.