Murcia by numbers
There are countless reasons to enjoy a break in this beautiful Spanish region
BY JULIE ALPINE
629
The number of calories in a slice of pastel de cierva, Murcia’s famously moreish meat pie, which is made with hard-boiled egg, chorizo and chicken, veal or venison, all wrapped in a fine layer of pastry and baked in the oven. The dish was traditionally saved for special occasions, but is today a favourite breakfast or brunch treat on any day of the week. Get yours at La Peladilla confiteria (Calle San Antonio 1; tel. +34 968 216 371) – and tell yourself you’ll walk it off later.
200
The average number of millimetres of rain recorded annually in Murcia. With its balmy Mediterranean climate and 300 sunny days a year, there’s not much point packing an umbrella. You’d have to be very unlucky to arrive during a gota fría (cold drop). It doesn’t happen every year, but when it does, the entire year’s rain is concentrated into a few days.
Still, what better excuse could there be to sit in a cosy restaurant and eat tapas all day?
25
The number of bells in the 96m high, symbol-of-the-city tower of the catedral de Santa María, which dominates Murcia’s skyline. The Cathedral, built over four centuries and containing some 23 different chapels, is considered a masterpiece of Spanish architecture.
Get the best view of it from the Plaza Cardenal Belluga, where you’ll find a plethora of cafés offering cold drinks and sweet pastries, then walk up Calle de la Trapería, the main street of medieval times, towards Plaza de Santo Domingo and beyond to Gran Via Alfonso X El Sabio, a pretty esplanade known for its bookstalls.
241
The stall number of Café Bar Lola at Murcia’s daily covered market on Calle Veronicas. Re-fuel on some colourful salads and grilled prawns washed down with a glass or two of white wine. It’s not for nothing that the region of Murcia is known as the “vegetable garden of Europe”, and this buzzing market provides the perfect opportunity to feast your eyes on row upon row of all manner of local produce.
556
The number of carved terracotta figures in the world-famous nativity scene in the Museo Salzillo. Built around the Church of Nuestro Padre Jesus, the museum was established in 1960 to honour the sculptor and wood carver Francisco Salzillo, who was born in Murica in 1707. An elevator whisks you to the top of the building, where you’ll get a fabulous bird’s eye view of the city below in addition to all the inspiring works of art on display inside. Open Tues-Sat 9.30am-1pm and 4pm-7pm, Sunday 11am-1pm. Admission €3. (Plaza San Agustin 3)
1
The number of euros you need to insert in the slot found in the magnificent ballroom of the Gran Casino to cause the 320 lamps of its candelabra to shimmer with light and a nearby piano to magically spring to life, filling the room with Strauss’s Radetsky March. The Casino, which first opened as a gentlemen’s club in 1847, also houses a museum and restaurant. Don’t miss the Moorish entrance hall and central patio, neither of which would look out of place in a Bond film. (Open 10am-9pm. Calle de la Trapería, 18; tel. +39 968 212 255)
3
That’s 3am, the closing time of most of Murcia’s cocktail bars, which don’t generally get lively until around midnight. If you’re having trouble staying awake till then, there are plenty of coffee bars where you can get a caffeine jolt, including those in Plaza Cardenal Belluga (Cathedral Square), from where you can enjoy the sight of the floodlit Cathedral. After that, Pop Art fans should hotfoot it to Bar Warhol (25 Calle Victorio), which has copies of the artist’s pictures on the walls, while cocktail connoisseurs can make a beeline for El Albergue (10 Calle Vara de Rey), which has an extensive drinks menu and live music on Tuesdays. Mestizo (14 Doctor Fleming) is a chilled-out café during the day but boasts a buzzing atmosphere after dark. Order a sherry if you want to be mistaken for a local.
1926
The year in which old-school tapas bar Los Zagales (“The Kids”) opened for business. The photos of football teams and bullfighters that adorn the walls might be browning with age, but the ingredients on the menu are all as fresh as can be. Highlights include crispy fried squid, paprika-seasoned quails’ eggs and ensaladilla – a surprisingly filling mix of tuna-mashed mayo and crunchy vegetables. (Calle de Medina, 4; tel. +34 968 215 579)
2
The number of Murcian branches of El Corte Ingles, Spain’s No.1 department store (www.elcorteingles.es). The biggest one is at the Avenida de la Libertad and the other is just around the corner at the Gran Via Escultor Salzillo. Check out the ladies and menswear sections for some bang-on-trend bargains. Nearby Calle Jabonerias is great for window shopping, although stepping inside any of the big-name designer stores dotted along this lively street is likely to break all but the most robust of holiday budgets. Gadget freaks will enjoy La Oca (Calle Trapería, 5; +34 968 216 942), which as well as gadgets and gizmos, also stocks quirky furniture and paintings. You can’t miss it: just look for the giant duck outside of the entrance.
31,045
The number of seats in Nueva Condomina, Murcia’s new stadium and home to the Real Murcia football team. Located next to Murcia’s ancient Bullring, within easy walking distance of the city centre, a visit here is a must for all serious European soccer fans, particularly since the Murcian team’s 2007 promotion to the ‘Primera División’. For upcoming games and ticket details, see www.realmurcia.info/mur05
73
The bus that travels between Murcia City Bus Station and Murcia Airport. Buses leave the airport for town at 5.45pm, 7.15pm and 10.45pm and leave the city for the airport at 1pm and 5.30pm, with an additional service on Monday, Friday and Sunday at 3.15pm. The journey takes around 45 minutes and prices are at www.latbus.com
10
The weight in tonnes of the giant, 25m-long sardine sculpture that happily spouts water in the Segura river. Sardines have a long history in Murcia: as well as appearing on many a tapas menu, they are also the stars of the Burial of the Sardine festival, which takes place during the lead-up to Easter. Although the water in the Segura is notoriously murky, you can cross from bank to bank using the many architecturally significant bridges, including the Vistabella, designed by internationally recognised and award-winning architect Santiago Calatrava.
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